What features to consider when selecting a ring flash?












3















I have a Nikon d7200 camera and managed to get my hands on Tamron 90mm f2.8 macro lens. While trying to take some shots at 1:1, I found lighting a big issue if I am stopping my lens down. I was suggested to buy a ring flash.



My question is, how do I select a ring flash? What parameters should I be looking at? I am not a professional, just a beginner trying it out as a hobby. Only flash I have at present is the pop up flash that is built into the body. Thanks.










share|improve this question





























    3















    I have a Nikon d7200 camera and managed to get my hands on Tamron 90mm f2.8 macro lens. While trying to take some shots at 1:1, I found lighting a big issue if I am stopping my lens down. I was suggested to buy a ring flash.



    My question is, how do I select a ring flash? What parameters should I be looking at? I am not a professional, just a beginner trying it out as a hobby. Only flash I have at present is the pop up flash that is built into the body. Thanks.










    share|improve this question



























      3












      3








      3








      I have a Nikon d7200 camera and managed to get my hands on Tamron 90mm f2.8 macro lens. While trying to take some shots at 1:1, I found lighting a big issue if I am stopping my lens down. I was suggested to buy a ring flash.



      My question is, how do I select a ring flash? What parameters should I be looking at? I am not a professional, just a beginner trying it out as a hobby. Only flash I have at present is the pop up flash that is built into the body. Thanks.










      share|improve this question
















      I have a Nikon d7200 camera and managed to get my hands on Tamron 90mm f2.8 macro lens. While trying to take some shots at 1:1, I found lighting a big issue if I am stopping my lens down. I was suggested to buy a ring flash.



      My question is, how do I select a ring flash? What parameters should I be looking at? I am not a professional, just a beginner trying it out as a hobby. Only flash I have at present is the pop up flash that is built into the body. Thanks.







      equipment-recommendation macro ring-flash






      share|improve this question















      share|improve this question













      share|improve this question




      share|improve this question








      edited 7 hours ago









      xiota

      11.2k31862




      11.2k31862










      asked 11 hours ago









      Anand MohanAnand Mohan

      235




      235






















          3 Answers
          3






          active

          oldest

          votes


















          6














          If you want a true ring flash, depending on your kind of macrophotography:




          • Still objects, plenty of time: you can work in manual, do test short... about any flash will do. No need for much power at close range.

          • Shooting outdoors, handheld, moving objects (bugs, etc...): something that is compatible with the camera TTL exposure will allow you to shoot using the camera auto modes.


          If you do very close shots, there are also circular LED lights that aren't technically flashes but are much less expensive and can do the job (Canon has a macro lens where such LED are built-in).



          Being able to use only one half of the device for side lighting is a useful feature (full ring flash tends to produce flat, shadow-less images).






          share|improve this answer


























          • Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

            – mattdm
            8 hours ago






          • 1





            Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

            – xenoid
            6 hours ago











          • That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

            – mattdm
            4 hours ago











          • @mattdm Edited.

            – xenoid
            4 hours ago



















          3














          Especially in case you are considering a legacy device, especially if non-TTL, check how low in power it can go.



          One example of a device hard to use nowadays is the Soligor AR-20 not infrequently found on the used market - this is a computer (external photocell) ring flash which is only specified for 20cm and more subject distance, and is designed to serve at either f/8 or f/16 at ISO 100.



          Some DSLRs/DSLMs do not even have ISO 100 anymore, and f/8 leaves you terribly little maneuvering space if you need to get closer or need to tone down a stop or two - you easily end up with your iso cranked all the way down, your aperture at f/22 (great DoF but you are in deep in diffraction territory here ... and when have you last cleaned your sensor? :) ), and still overexposing....






          share|improve this answer
























          • I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

            – Hueco
            1 hour ago











          • An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

            – rackandboneman
            11 mins ago



















          0














          There are some cheap and cheerful ring flash adaptors if you've got an external flash. They work surprisingly well for close range considering they're basically just light guides, thought the one I have doesn't deliver as much light at the bottom as at the top/sides and needed a little modification to fit nicely. This isn't much of an issue if you're shooting landscape.



          Because they're dumb light guides, the TTL in your flash functions as it normally would.



          The only shot I've got to hand taken with it has blown highlights and was taken at annoyingly high ISO, which I forgot to change after shooting at dusk with a long lens. It was also cropped from a resized image I was using as a desktop background. But here it is anyway:



          enter image description here






          share|improve this answer























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            3 Answers
            3






            active

            oldest

            votes








            3 Answers
            3






            active

            oldest

            votes









            active

            oldest

            votes






            active

            oldest

            votes









            6














            If you want a true ring flash, depending on your kind of macrophotography:




            • Still objects, plenty of time: you can work in manual, do test short... about any flash will do. No need for much power at close range.

            • Shooting outdoors, handheld, moving objects (bugs, etc...): something that is compatible with the camera TTL exposure will allow you to shoot using the camera auto modes.


            If you do very close shots, there are also circular LED lights that aren't technically flashes but are much less expensive and can do the job (Canon has a macro lens where such LED are built-in).



            Being able to use only one half of the device for side lighting is a useful feature (full ring flash tends to produce flat, shadow-less images).






            share|improve this answer


























            • Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

              – mattdm
              8 hours ago






            • 1





              Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

              – xenoid
              6 hours ago











            • That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

              – mattdm
              4 hours ago











            • @mattdm Edited.

              – xenoid
              4 hours ago
















            6














            If you want a true ring flash, depending on your kind of macrophotography:




            • Still objects, plenty of time: you can work in manual, do test short... about any flash will do. No need for much power at close range.

            • Shooting outdoors, handheld, moving objects (bugs, etc...): something that is compatible with the camera TTL exposure will allow you to shoot using the camera auto modes.


            If you do very close shots, there are also circular LED lights that aren't technically flashes but are much less expensive and can do the job (Canon has a macro lens where such LED are built-in).



            Being able to use only one half of the device for side lighting is a useful feature (full ring flash tends to produce flat, shadow-less images).






            share|improve this answer


























            • Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

              – mattdm
              8 hours ago






            • 1





              Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

              – xenoid
              6 hours ago











            • That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

              – mattdm
              4 hours ago











            • @mattdm Edited.

              – xenoid
              4 hours ago














            6












            6








            6







            If you want a true ring flash, depending on your kind of macrophotography:




            • Still objects, plenty of time: you can work in manual, do test short... about any flash will do. No need for much power at close range.

            • Shooting outdoors, handheld, moving objects (bugs, etc...): something that is compatible with the camera TTL exposure will allow you to shoot using the camera auto modes.


            If you do very close shots, there are also circular LED lights that aren't technically flashes but are much less expensive and can do the job (Canon has a macro lens where such LED are built-in).



            Being able to use only one half of the device for side lighting is a useful feature (full ring flash tends to produce flat, shadow-less images).






            share|improve this answer















            If you want a true ring flash, depending on your kind of macrophotography:




            • Still objects, plenty of time: you can work in manual, do test short... about any flash will do. No need for much power at close range.

            • Shooting outdoors, handheld, moving objects (bugs, etc...): something that is compatible with the camera TTL exposure will allow you to shoot using the camera auto modes.


            If you do very close shots, there are also circular LED lights that aren't technically flashes but are much less expensive and can do the job (Canon has a macro lens where such LED are built-in).



            Being able to use only one half of the device for side lighting is a useful feature (full ring flash tends to produce flat, shadow-less images).







            share|improve this answer














            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer








            edited 4 hours ago

























            answered 8 hours ago









            xenoidxenoid

            4,0961519




            4,0961519













            • Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

              – mattdm
              8 hours ago






            • 1





              Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

              – xenoid
              6 hours ago











            • That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

              – mattdm
              4 hours ago











            • @mattdm Edited.

              – xenoid
              4 hours ago



















            • Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

              – mattdm
              8 hours ago






            • 1





              Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

              – xenoid
              6 hours ago











            • That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

              – mattdm
              4 hours ago











            • @mattdm Edited.

              – xenoid
              4 hours ago

















            Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

            – mattdm
            8 hours ago





            Why would camera TTL be a deciding factor? Isn't it generally the case with macro that a lot of parameters are under control and the light is not usually rapidly changing?

            – mattdm
            8 hours ago




            1




            1





            Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

            – xenoid
            6 hours ago





            Depends on the kind of macro you do. Spiders and butterflies are rarely under my control, as are the leaves around them when there is some wind. No time for lengthy setup and test shots (this said, for this kind of macro I prefer the natural light).

            – xenoid
            6 hours ago













            That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

            – mattdm
            4 hours ago





            That certainly makes sense for those situations — maybe put it in the answer?

            – mattdm
            4 hours ago













            @mattdm Edited.

            – xenoid
            4 hours ago





            @mattdm Edited.

            – xenoid
            4 hours ago













            3














            Especially in case you are considering a legacy device, especially if non-TTL, check how low in power it can go.



            One example of a device hard to use nowadays is the Soligor AR-20 not infrequently found on the used market - this is a computer (external photocell) ring flash which is only specified for 20cm and more subject distance, and is designed to serve at either f/8 or f/16 at ISO 100.



            Some DSLRs/DSLMs do not even have ISO 100 anymore, and f/8 leaves you terribly little maneuvering space if you need to get closer or need to tone down a stop or two - you easily end up with your iso cranked all the way down, your aperture at f/22 (great DoF but you are in deep in diffraction territory here ... and when have you last cleaned your sensor? :) ), and still overexposing....






            share|improve this answer
























            • I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

              – Hueco
              1 hour ago











            • An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

              – rackandboneman
              11 mins ago
















            3














            Especially in case you are considering a legacy device, especially if non-TTL, check how low in power it can go.



            One example of a device hard to use nowadays is the Soligor AR-20 not infrequently found on the used market - this is a computer (external photocell) ring flash which is only specified for 20cm and more subject distance, and is designed to serve at either f/8 or f/16 at ISO 100.



            Some DSLRs/DSLMs do not even have ISO 100 anymore, and f/8 leaves you terribly little maneuvering space if you need to get closer or need to tone down a stop or two - you easily end up with your iso cranked all the way down, your aperture at f/22 (great DoF but you are in deep in diffraction territory here ... and when have you last cleaned your sensor? :) ), and still overexposing....






            share|improve this answer
























            • I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

              – Hueco
              1 hour ago











            • An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

              – rackandboneman
              11 mins ago














            3












            3








            3







            Especially in case you are considering a legacy device, especially if non-TTL, check how low in power it can go.



            One example of a device hard to use nowadays is the Soligor AR-20 not infrequently found on the used market - this is a computer (external photocell) ring flash which is only specified for 20cm and more subject distance, and is designed to serve at either f/8 or f/16 at ISO 100.



            Some DSLRs/DSLMs do not even have ISO 100 anymore, and f/8 leaves you terribly little maneuvering space if you need to get closer or need to tone down a stop or two - you easily end up with your iso cranked all the way down, your aperture at f/22 (great DoF but you are in deep in diffraction territory here ... and when have you last cleaned your sensor? :) ), and still overexposing....






            share|improve this answer













            Especially in case you are considering a legacy device, especially if non-TTL, check how low in power it can go.



            One example of a device hard to use nowadays is the Soligor AR-20 not infrequently found on the used market - this is a computer (external photocell) ring flash which is only specified for 20cm and more subject distance, and is designed to serve at either f/8 or f/16 at ISO 100.



            Some DSLRs/DSLMs do not even have ISO 100 anymore, and f/8 leaves you terribly little maneuvering space if you need to get closer or need to tone down a stop or two - you easily end up with your iso cranked all the way down, your aperture at f/22 (great DoF but you are in deep in diffraction territory here ... and when have you last cleaned your sensor? :) ), and still overexposing....







            share|improve this answer












            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer










            answered 6 hours ago









            rackandbonemanrackandboneman

            2,939817




            2,939817













            • I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

              – Hueco
              1 hour ago











            • An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

              – rackandboneman
              11 mins ago



















            • I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

              – Hueco
              1 hour ago











            • An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

              – rackandboneman
              11 mins ago

















            I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

            – Hueco
            1 hour ago





            I’m guessing Soligor never created some ND attachments for their not-too-flexible flash?

            – Hueco
            1 hour ago













            An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

            – rackandboneman
            11 mins ago





            An ND attachment would be consummately pointless with a computer flash :)

            – rackandboneman
            11 mins ago











            0














            There are some cheap and cheerful ring flash adaptors if you've got an external flash. They work surprisingly well for close range considering they're basically just light guides, thought the one I have doesn't deliver as much light at the bottom as at the top/sides and needed a little modification to fit nicely. This isn't much of an issue if you're shooting landscape.



            Because they're dumb light guides, the TTL in your flash functions as it normally would.



            The only shot I've got to hand taken with it has blown highlights and was taken at annoyingly high ISO, which I forgot to change after shooting at dusk with a long lens. It was also cropped from a resized image I was using as a desktop background. But here it is anyway:



            enter image description here






            share|improve this answer




























              0














              There are some cheap and cheerful ring flash adaptors if you've got an external flash. They work surprisingly well for close range considering they're basically just light guides, thought the one I have doesn't deliver as much light at the bottom as at the top/sides and needed a little modification to fit nicely. This isn't much of an issue if you're shooting landscape.



              Because they're dumb light guides, the TTL in your flash functions as it normally would.



              The only shot I've got to hand taken with it has blown highlights and was taken at annoyingly high ISO, which I forgot to change after shooting at dusk with a long lens. It was also cropped from a resized image I was using as a desktop background. But here it is anyway:



              enter image description here






              share|improve this answer


























                0












                0








                0







                There are some cheap and cheerful ring flash adaptors if you've got an external flash. They work surprisingly well for close range considering they're basically just light guides, thought the one I have doesn't deliver as much light at the bottom as at the top/sides and needed a little modification to fit nicely. This isn't much of an issue if you're shooting landscape.



                Because they're dumb light guides, the TTL in your flash functions as it normally would.



                The only shot I've got to hand taken with it has blown highlights and was taken at annoyingly high ISO, which I forgot to change after shooting at dusk with a long lens. It was also cropped from a resized image I was using as a desktop background. But here it is anyway:



                enter image description here






                share|improve this answer













                There are some cheap and cheerful ring flash adaptors if you've got an external flash. They work surprisingly well for close range considering they're basically just light guides, thought the one I have doesn't deliver as much light at the bottom as at the top/sides and needed a little modification to fit nicely. This isn't much of an issue if you're shooting landscape.



                Because they're dumb light guides, the TTL in your flash functions as it normally would.



                The only shot I've got to hand taken with it has blown highlights and was taken at annoyingly high ISO, which I forgot to change after shooting at dusk with a long lens. It was also cropped from a resized image I was using as a desktop background. But here it is anyway:



                enter image description here







                share|improve this answer












                share|improve this answer



                share|improve this answer










                answered 56 mins ago









                Chris HChris H

                3,25511014




                3,25511014






























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