Plywood subfloor won't screw down in a trailer home












5















I'm remodeling my mom's bathroom and I'm putting 1/4 inch plywood down on top of the floor to get a smooth surface. The existing floor is strong but there was some deflection in it and it's not as smooth as I would like for stick-down tile.



My question is when screwing the quarter-inch plywood down, I can't get the screws to the bite down to go all the way in. Any answers to what kind of screws I could use to screw it down? I do not have a compressor for a nail gun or staple gun to do it that way and I don't think quarter-inch plywood would be okay with staples.



I just really need to know what screws will bite down and countersink.










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  • What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

    – JPhi1618
    12 hours ago











  • What are you screwing into?

    – Hot Licks
    3 hours ago
















5















I'm remodeling my mom's bathroom and I'm putting 1/4 inch plywood down on top of the floor to get a smooth surface. The existing floor is strong but there was some deflection in it and it's not as smooth as I would like for stick-down tile.



My question is when screwing the quarter-inch plywood down, I can't get the screws to the bite down to go all the way in. Any answers to what kind of screws I could use to screw it down? I do not have a compressor for a nail gun or staple gun to do it that way and I don't think quarter-inch plywood would be okay with staples.



I just really need to know what screws will bite down and countersink.










share|improve this question









New contributor




ERIC Mulac is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

    – JPhi1618
    12 hours ago











  • What are you screwing into?

    – Hot Licks
    3 hours ago














5












5








5


1






I'm remodeling my mom's bathroom and I'm putting 1/4 inch plywood down on top of the floor to get a smooth surface. The existing floor is strong but there was some deflection in it and it's not as smooth as I would like for stick-down tile.



My question is when screwing the quarter-inch plywood down, I can't get the screws to the bite down to go all the way in. Any answers to what kind of screws I could use to screw it down? I do not have a compressor for a nail gun or staple gun to do it that way and I don't think quarter-inch plywood would be okay with staples.



I just really need to know what screws will bite down and countersink.










share|improve this question









New contributor




ERIC Mulac is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I'm remodeling my mom's bathroom and I'm putting 1/4 inch plywood down on top of the floor to get a smooth surface. The existing floor is strong but there was some deflection in it and it's not as smooth as I would like for stick-down tile.



My question is when screwing the quarter-inch plywood down, I can't get the screws to the bite down to go all the way in. Any answers to what kind of screws I could use to screw it down? I do not have a compressor for a nail gun or staple gun to do it that way and I don't think quarter-inch plywood would be okay with staples.



I just really need to know what screws will bite down and countersink.







flooring tile screws






share|improve this question









New contributor




ERIC Mulac is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









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share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 8 hours ago









mike65535

9251520




9251520






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asked 12 hours ago









ERIC MulacERIC Mulac

261




261




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  • What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

    – JPhi1618
    12 hours ago











  • What are you screwing into?

    – Hot Licks
    3 hours ago



















  • What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

    – JPhi1618
    12 hours ago











  • What are you screwing into?

    – Hot Licks
    3 hours ago

















What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

– JPhi1618
12 hours ago





What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

– JPhi1618
12 hours ago













What are you screwing into?

– Hot Licks
3 hours ago





What are you screwing into?

– Hot Licks
3 hours ago










4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes


















8














When you say "bite down" do you mean:




  1. It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or

  2. It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?


If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).



If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.



I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to enter image description here found here Home Depot link to the example picture



Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.



Hope this helps!






share|improve this answer










New contributor




brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

    – JPhi1618
    11 hours ago





















6














Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most. They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily.



enter image description here






share|improve this answer
























  • Spax and GRK are the gold standard in this stuff

    – Machavity
    6 hours ago











  • Actually, any sort of "deck screw" should work, so long as the dimensions are suitable.

    – Hot Licks
    3 hours ago



















4














The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home.



Screws are the right thing to use. Stapes or nails would pull out. There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads.



Subfloor screw



Example of backer board screws



If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface.






share|improve this answer

































    1














    It seems to me that the reason the screws aren't pulling in is because of the shank of the screw being as thick as the combined material. The OP states that the original floor is solid. Maybe it's a case of 1/2" ply flooring with 1/4" ply going down, using 2" screws with a 3/4" shank. If that's the case a wide shankless screw would be great. Something like a 1" bugle or flat head #8 would work well. Make sure it's finish ply and painting it is a good idea. I put peel and sticks down once and wasn't happy with the process. I used 3m spray adhesive and then layed the tile.



    Anatomy of a screw
    enter image description herehttps://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjC5oz5wIDhAhWE0YMKHQokDY0QjB16BAgBEAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kregtool.com%2Fabout-us%2Fnews%2Fkreg-tool-tips-joining%2Fanatomy-of-a-pocket-hole-screw.aspx&psig=AOvVaw1t8n608H3d1xvpxQCXfTCL&ust=1552614224018095






    share|improve this answer























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      4 Answers
      4






      active

      oldest

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      4 Answers
      4






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      8














      When you say "bite down" do you mean:




      1. It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or

      2. It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?


      If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).



      If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.



      I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to enter image description here found here Home Depot link to the example picture



      Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.



      Hope this helps!






      share|improve this answer










      New contributor




      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.





















      • Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

        – JPhi1618
        11 hours ago


















      8














      When you say "bite down" do you mean:




      1. It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or

      2. It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?


      If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).



      If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.



      I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to enter image description here found here Home Depot link to the example picture



      Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.



      Hope this helps!






      share|improve this answer










      New contributor




      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.





















      • Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

        – JPhi1618
        11 hours ago
















      8












      8








      8







      When you say "bite down" do you mean:




      1. It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or

      2. It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?


      If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).



      If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.



      I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to enter image description here found here Home Depot link to the example picture



      Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.



      Hope this helps!






      share|improve this answer










      New contributor




      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.










      When you say "bite down" do you mean:




      1. It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or

      2. It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?


      If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).



      If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.



      I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to enter image description here found here Home Depot link to the example picture



      Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.



      Hope this helps!







      share|improve this answer










      New contributor




      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.









      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer








      edited 11 hours ago





















      New contributor




      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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      answered 11 hours ago









      brehmabrehma

      813




      813




      New contributor




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      New contributor





      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.













      • Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

        – JPhi1618
        11 hours ago





















      • Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

        – JPhi1618
        11 hours ago



















      Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

      – JPhi1618
      11 hours ago







      Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

      – JPhi1618
      11 hours ago















      6














      Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most. They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily.



      enter image description here






      share|improve this answer
























      • Spax and GRK are the gold standard in this stuff

        – Machavity
        6 hours ago











      • Actually, any sort of "deck screw" should work, so long as the dimensions are suitable.

        – Hot Licks
        3 hours ago
















      6














      Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most. They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily.



      enter image description here






      share|improve this answer
























      • Spax and GRK are the gold standard in this stuff

        – Machavity
        6 hours ago











      • Actually, any sort of "deck screw" should work, so long as the dimensions are suitable.

        – Hot Licks
        3 hours ago














      6












      6








      6







      Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most. They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily.



      enter image description here






      share|improve this answer













      Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most. They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily.



      enter image description here







      share|improve this answer












      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer










      answered 10 hours ago









      Jerry_ContraryJerry_Contrary

      2,548318




      2,548318













      • Spax and GRK are the gold standard in this stuff

        – Machavity
        6 hours ago











      • Actually, any sort of "deck screw" should work, so long as the dimensions are suitable.

        – Hot Licks
        3 hours ago



















      • Spax and GRK are the gold standard in this stuff

        – Machavity
        6 hours ago











      • Actually, any sort of "deck screw" should work, so long as the dimensions are suitable.

        – Hot Licks
        3 hours ago

















      Spax and GRK are the gold standard in this stuff

      – Machavity
      6 hours ago





      Spax and GRK are the gold standard in this stuff

      – Machavity
      6 hours ago













      Actually, any sort of "deck screw" should work, so long as the dimensions are suitable.

      – Hot Licks
      3 hours ago





      Actually, any sort of "deck screw" should work, so long as the dimensions are suitable.

      – Hot Licks
      3 hours ago











      4














      The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home.



      Screws are the right thing to use. Stapes or nails would pull out. There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads.



      Subfloor screw



      Example of backer board screws



      If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface.






      share|improve this answer






























        4














        The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home.



        Screws are the right thing to use. Stapes or nails would pull out. There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads.



        Subfloor screw



        Example of backer board screws



        If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface.






        share|improve this answer




























          4












          4








          4







          The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home.



          Screws are the right thing to use. Stapes or nails would pull out. There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads.



          Subfloor screw



          Example of backer board screws



          If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface.






          share|improve this answer















          The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home.



          Screws are the right thing to use. Stapes or nails would pull out. There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads.



          Subfloor screw



          Example of backer board screws



          If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface.







          share|improve this answer














          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer








          edited 12 hours ago

























          answered 12 hours ago









          JPhi1618JPhi1618

          9,45812145




          9,45812145























              1














              It seems to me that the reason the screws aren't pulling in is because of the shank of the screw being as thick as the combined material. The OP states that the original floor is solid. Maybe it's a case of 1/2" ply flooring with 1/4" ply going down, using 2" screws with a 3/4" shank. If that's the case a wide shankless screw would be great. Something like a 1" bugle or flat head #8 would work well. Make sure it's finish ply and painting it is a good idea. I put peel and sticks down once and wasn't happy with the process. I used 3m spray adhesive and then layed the tile.



              Anatomy of a screw
              enter image description herehttps://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjC5oz5wIDhAhWE0YMKHQokDY0QjB16BAgBEAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kregtool.com%2Fabout-us%2Fnews%2Fkreg-tool-tips-joining%2Fanatomy-of-a-pocket-hole-screw.aspx&psig=AOvVaw1t8n608H3d1xvpxQCXfTCL&ust=1552614224018095






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                1














                It seems to me that the reason the screws aren't pulling in is because of the shank of the screw being as thick as the combined material. The OP states that the original floor is solid. Maybe it's a case of 1/2" ply flooring with 1/4" ply going down, using 2" screws with a 3/4" shank. If that's the case a wide shankless screw would be great. Something like a 1" bugle or flat head #8 would work well. Make sure it's finish ply and painting it is a good idea. I put peel and sticks down once and wasn't happy with the process. I used 3m spray adhesive and then layed the tile.



                Anatomy of a screw
                enter image description herehttps://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjC5oz5wIDhAhWE0YMKHQokDY0QjB16BAgBEAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kregtool.com%2Fabout-us%2Fnews%2Fkreg-tool-tips-joining%2Fanatomy-of-a-pocket-hole-screw.aspx&psig=AOvVaw1t8n608H3d1xvpxQCXfTCL&ust=1552614224018095






                share|improve this answer


























                  1












                  1








                  1







                  It seems to me that the reason the screws aren't pulling in is because of the shank of the screw being as thick as the combined material. The OP states that the original floor is solid. Maybe it's a case of 1/2" ply flooring with 1/4" ply going down, using 2" screws with a 3/4" shank. If that's the case a wide shankless screw would be great. Something like a 1" bugle or flat head #8 would work well. Make sure it's finish ply and painting it is a good idea. I put peel and sticks down once and wasn't happy with the process. I used 3m spray adhesive and then layed the tile.



                  Anatomy of a screw
                  enter image description herehttps://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjC5oz5wIDhAhWE0YMKHQokDY0QjB16BAgBEAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kregtool.com%2Fabout-us%2Fnews%2Fkreg-tool-tips-joining%2Fanatomy-of-a-pocket-hole-screw.aspx&psig=AOvVaw1t8n608H3d1xvpxQCXfTCL&ust=1552614224018095






                  share|improve this answer













                  It seems to me that the reason the screws aren't pulling in is because of the shank of the screw being as thick as the combined material. The OP states that the original floor is solid. Maybe it's a case of 1/2" ply flooring with 1/4" ply going down, using 2" screws with a 3/4" shank. If that's the case a wide shankless screw would be great. Something like a 1" bugle or flat head #8 would work well. Make sure it's finish ply and painting it is a good idea. I put peel and sticks down once and wasn't happy with the process. I used 3m spray adhesive and then layed the tile.



                  Anatomy of a screw
                  enter image description herehttps://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjC5oz5wIDhAhWE0YMKHQokDY0QjB16BAgBEAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kregtool.com%2Fabout-us%2Fnews%2Fkreg-tool-tips-joining%2Fanatomy-of-a-pocket-hole-screw.aspx&psig=AOvVaw1t8n608H3d1xvpxQCXfTCL&ust=1552614224018095







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered 3 hours ago









                  Joe FalaJoe Fala

                  3,106121




                  3,106121






















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