Stopping power of mountain vs road bike












3















I have recently been restoring a Btwin Triban-500 road bike, given to me from a friend who had let it sit around for a few years. I've rebuilt the bike sparing no expense, new tyres, inner tubes, cables, levers, chain, cassette and everything else has been thoroughly cleaned (with dish detergent, degreaser and re-greased).



It's been a fun project and I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected. I've taken the bike for a spin around the block and I'm not happy with the braking power. I've got the brake cables tight and the pads are adjusted (i've done the same on my V-brake cheapo mountain bike and that stops quickly!). When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but I take longer to stop than I'm perhaps used to. I mentioned my cheap mountain bike and those brakes are sharp (despite being cheap V-brakes). I've previously owned a hybrid with hydraulic discs and even half the lever was enough to violently throw me over the bars, I strive for brakes that powerful!



In comparison to my mountain bike, I'd say I take an extra half second to stop (I did a very scientific test past a street lamp). It worries me because the mountain bike is one of the cheapest rubbishest bikes from Halfords, surely the road should stop before it?



The mountain has 1.95 wide tyres and the road has 23mm tyres, will the reduced rubber be making a big impact (less friction) stopping the bike? or should I be able to get the rim brakes to perform just as well as the cantilevers?



Thanks






brakes maintenance rim-brake







share|improve this question









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  • 3





    I don't understand. You say "I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected", which strongly suggests that the front brakes aren't connected. That, right there, would explain your bad braking performance, since something like 70% of the braking power comes from the front wheel. But then you claim that you're locking up the front wheel while braking. Regardless of what brakes are connected, that's suspect, since a locked front wheel almost always throws you off the bike. So what's going on?

    – David Richerby
    14 hours ago






  • 3





    Indeed, in my experience a locked front wheel almost always requires a change of underwear :)

    – Andy P
    14 hours ago






  • 6





    @AndyP You shouldn't wear underwear with your cycling shorts! ;-) (Or maybe you should, since a change of underwear is much cheaper than a change of shorts.)

    – David Richerby
    14 hours ago






  • 1





    Have you replaced the brake rubbers? Old one may become hard and lose stopping power. Have you degreased the rims? From sitting around they may have gathered greasy dust, especially while stored in a garage.

    – Carel
    13 hours ago






  • 1





    Just to clarify: Are you really able to make the front wheel lock and skid on dry tarmac? Then the brakes are fine but the tires are rubbish.

    – Michael
    8 hours ago


















3















I have recently been restoring a Btwin Triban-500 road bike, given to me from a friend who had let it sit around for a few years. I've rebuilt the bike sparing no expense, new tyres, inner tubes, cables, levers, chain, cassette and everything else has been thoroughly cleaned (with dish detergent, degreaser and re-greased).



It's been a fun project and I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected. I've taken the bike for a spin around the block and I'm not happy with the braking power. I've got the brake cables tight and the pads are adjusted (i've done the same on my V-brake cheapo mountain bike and that stops quickly!). When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but I take longer to stop than I'm perhaps used to. I mentioned my cheap mountain bike and those brakes are sharp (despite being cheap V-brakes). I've previously owned a hybrid with hydraulic discs and even half the lever was enough to violently throw me over the bars, I strive for brakes that powerful!



In comparison to my mountain bike, I'd say I take an extra half second to stop (I did a very scientific test past a street lamp). It worries me because the mountain bike is one of the cheapest rubbishest bikes from Halfords, surely the road should stop before it?



The mountain has 1.95 wide tyres and the road has 23mm tyres, will the reduced rubber be making a big impact (less friction) stopping the bike? or should I be able to get the rim brakes to perform just as well as the cantilevers?



Thanks






brakes maintenance rim-brake







share|improve this question









New contributor




Axemasta is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 3





    I don't understand. You say "I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected", which strongly suggests that the front brakes aren't connected. That, right there, would explain your bad braking performance, since something like 70% of the braking power comes from the front wheel. But then you claim that you're locking up the front wheel while braking. Regardless of what brakes are connected, that's suspect, since a locked front wheel almost always throws you off the bike. So what's going on?

    – David Richerby
    14 hours ago






  • 3





    Indeed, in my experience a locked front wheel almost always requires a change of underwear :)

    – Andy P
    14 hours ago






  • 6





    @AndyP You shouldn't wear underwear with your cycling shorts! ;-) (Or maybe you should, since a change of underwear is much cheaper than a change of shorts.)

    – David Richerby
    14 hours ago






  • 1





    Have you replaced the brake rubbers? Old one may become hard and lose stopping power. Have you degreased the rims? From sitting around they may have gathered greasy dust, especially while stored in a garage.

    – Carel
    13 hours ago






  • 1





    Just to clarify: Are you really able to make the front wheel lock and skid on dry tarmac? Then the brakes are fine but the tires are rubbish.

    – Michael
    8 hours ago
















3












3








3


1






I have recently been restoring a Btwin Triban-500 road bike, given to me from a friend who had let it sit around for a few years. I've rebuilt the bike sparing no expense, new tyres, inner tubes, cables, levers, chain, cassette and everything else has been thoroughly cleaned (with dish detergent, degreaser and re-greased).



It's been a fun project and I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected. I've taken the bike for a spin around the block and I'm not happy with the braking power. I've got the brake cables tight and the pads are adjusted (i've done the same on my V-brake cheapo mountain bike and that stops quickly!). When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but I take longer to stop than I'm perhaps used to. I mentioned my cheap mountain bike and those brakes are sharp (despite being cheap V-brakes). I've previously owned a hybrid with hydraulic discs and even half the lever was enough to violently throw me over the bars, I strive for brakes that powerful!



In comparison to my mountain bike, I'd say I take an extra half second to stop (I did a very scientific test past a street lamp). It worries me because the mountain bike is one of the cheapest rubbishest bikes from Halfords, surely the road should stop before it?



The mountain has 1.95 wide tyres and the road has 23mm tyres, will the reduced rubber be making a big impact (less friction) stopping the bike? or should I be able to get the rim brakes to perform just as well as the cantilevers?



Thanks






brakes maintenance rim-brake







share|improve this question









New contributor




Axemasta is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I have recently been restoring a Btwin Triban-500 road bike, given to me from a friend who had let it sit around for a few years. I've rebuilt the bike sparing no expense, new tyres, inner tubes, cables, levers, chain, cassette and everything else has been thoroughly cleaned (with dish detergent, degreaser and re-greased).



It's been a fun project and I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected. I've taken the bike for a spin around the block and I'm not happy with the braking power. I've got the brake cables tight and the pads are adjusted (i've done the same on my V-brake cheapo mountain bike and that stops quickly!). When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but I take longer to stop than I'm perhaps used to. I mentioned my cheap mountain bike and those brakes are sharp (despite being cheap V-brakes). I've previously owned a hybrid with hydraulic discs and even half the lever was enough to violently throw me over the bars, I strive for brakes that powerful!



In comparison to my mountain bike, I'd say I take an extra half second to stop (I did a very scientific test past a street lamp). It worries me because the mountain bike is one of the cheapest rubbishest bikes from Halfords, surely the road should stop before it?



The mountain has 1.95 wide tyres and the road has 23mm tyres, will the reduced rubber be making a big impact (less friction) stopping the bike? or should I be able to get the rim brakes to perform just as well as the cantilevers?



Thanks






brakes maintenance rim-brake




brakes maintenance rim-brake






share|improve this question









New contributor




Axemasta is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




Axemasta is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 14 hours ago









Argenti Apparatus

37k23891




37k23891






New contributor




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Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 15 hours ago









AxemastaAxemasta

1163




1163




New contributor




Axemasta is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





Axemasta is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Axemasta is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








  • 3





    I don't understand. You say "I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected", which strongly suggests that the front brakes aren't connected. That, right there, would explain your bad braking performance, since something like 70% of the braking power comes from the front wheel. But then you claim that you're locking up the front wheel while braking. Regardless of what brakes are connected, that's suspect, since a locked front wheel almost always throws you off the bike. So what's going on?

    – David Richerby
    14 hours ago






  • 3





    Indeed, in my experience a locked front wheel almost always requires a change of underwear :)

    – Andy P
    14 hours ago






  • 6





    @AndyP You shouldn't wear underwear with your cycling shorts! ;-) (Or maybe you should, since a change of underwear is much cheaper than a change of shorts.)

    – David Richerby
    14 hours ago






  • 1





    Have you replaced the brake rubbers? Old one may become hard and lose stopping power. Have you degreased the rims? From sitting around they may have gathered greasy dust, especially while stored in a garage.

    – Carel
    13 hours ago






  • 1





    Just to clarify: Are you really able to make the front wheel lock and skid on dry tarmac? Then the brakes are fine but the tires are rubbish.

    – Michael
    8 hours ago
















  • 3





    I don't understand. You say "I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected", which strongly suggests that the front brakes aren't connected. That, right there, would explain your bad braking performance, since something like 70% of the braking power comes from the front wheel. But then you claim that you're locking up the front wheel while braking. Regardless of what brakes are connected, that's suspect, since a locked front wheel almost always throws you off the bike. So what's going on?

    – David Richerby
    14 hours ago






  • 3





    Indeed, in my experience a locked front wheel almost always requires a change of underwear :)

    – Andy P
    14 hours ago






  • 6





    @AndyP You shouldn't wear underwear with your cycling shorts! ;-) (Or maybe you should, since a change of underwear is much cheaper than a change of shorts.)

    – David Richerby
    14 hours ago






  • 1





    Have you replaced the brake rubbers? Old one may become hard and lose stopping power. Have you degreased the rims? From sitting around they may have gathered greasy dust, especially while stored in a garage.

    – Carel
    13 hours ago






  • 1





    Just to clarify: Are you really able to make the front wheel lock and skid on dry tarmac? Then the brakes are fine but the tires are rubbish.

    – Michael
    8 hours ago










3




3





I don't understand. You say "I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected", which strongly suggests that the front brakes aren't connected. That, right there, would explain your bad braking performance, since something like 70% of the braking power comes from the front wheel. But then you claim that you're locking up the front wheel while braking. Regardless of what brakes are connected, that's suspect, since a locked front wheel almost always throws you off the bike. So what's going on?

– David Richerby
14 hours ago





I don't understand. You say "I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected", which strongly suggests that the front brakes aren't connected. That, right there, would explain your bad braking performance, since something like 70% of the braking power comes from the front wheel. But then you claim that you're locking up the front wheel while braking. Regardless of what brakes are connected, that's suspect, since a locked front wheel almost always throws you off the bike. So what's going on?

– David Richerby
14 hours ago




3




3





Indeed, in my experience a locked front wheel almost always requires a change of underwear :)

– Andy P
14 hours ago





Indeed, in my experience a locked front wheel almost always requires a change of underwear :)

– Andy P
14 hours ago




6




6





@AndyP You shouldn't wear underwear with your cycling shorts! ;-) (Or maybe you should, since a change of underwear is much cheaper than a change of shorts.)

– David Richerby
14 hours ago





@AndyP You shouldn't wear underwear with your cycling shorts! ;-) (Or maybe you should, since a change of underwear is much cheaper than a change of shorts.)

– David Richerby
14 hours ago




1




1





Have you replaced the brake rubbers? Old one may become hard and lose stopping power. Have you degreased the rims? From sitting around they may have gathered greasy dust, especially while stored in a garage.

– Carel
13 hours ago





Have you replaced the brake rubbers? Old one may become hard and lose stopping power. Have you degreased the rims? From sitting around they may have gathered greasy dust, especially while stored in a garage.

– Carel
13 hours ago




1




1





Just to clarify: Are you really able to make the front wheel lock and skid on dry tarmac? Then the brakes are fine but the tires are rubbish.

– Michael
8 hours ago







Just to clarify: Are you really able to make the front wheel lock and skid on dry tarmac? Then the brakes are fine but the tires are rubbish.

– Michael
8 hours ago












3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















11














You have already answered your own question really.




When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but i take longer to stop than i'm perhaps used to.




If the brakes are strong enough to lock up the wheels they have plenty of power, but you have overcome the ability of the tyre to grip the road.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    Do you think upgrading the tyres would be a good shout? I'm a little worried about the bikes ability to stop fast in traffic!

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 2





    I think upgrading the tyres to the very best you can afford is always a good shout on any bike. Tyres very much define how your bike performs. Tyres are responsible for grip (cornering and braking), rolling resistance, ride 'feel' and puncture resistance.

    – Andy P
    14 hours ago








  • 4





    Some tires come with a thick wax coating and have full grip after the wax has worn away. Is suspect yours are one of these, because on a road bike you usually lift the rear wheel before locking front. Just do some riding to break them in.

    – ojs
    13 hours ago






  • 1





    @ojs Good thinking, I hadn't thought of that. I always rub that stuff off by hand before use.

    – Andy P
    13 hours ago






  • 2





    Noting of course that "best" is a function of many variables when it comes to tyres

    – Chris H
    8 hours ago



















5














The maximum braking force is achieved when the tire is just about to loose traction and start sliding on the road surface. Braking force decreases sharply as the tire begins to slide.



If you are locking both wheels, you are not getting maximum braking force, so try to modulate the force you are putting on the levers so that the wheels do not lock up. You should be able to apply more force on the front brake lever as the deceleration of your mass pushes the front tire against the road harder, making it more difficult to lock that wheel.



Also be aware that the 23mm road tires have a much smaller contact patch and therefore less grip. Higher tire pressure reduces the contact patch size, so you could try a lower tire pressure.






share|improve this answer


























  • Ok thankyou, I'm running 100psi at the moment, I'll try 80 tonight

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 1





    @Axemasta I get pinch flats on my 25mm tyres if I let the pressure get down to 80psi. Unless you're lighter than me (~73 kg), I wouldn't go below 90psi on 23mm tyres.

    – David Richerby
    13 hours ago











  • @DavidRicherby risk of pinch flats depends on the surface as well as pressure and rider mass.

    – Argenti Apparatus
    12 hours ago











  • @ArgentiApparatus I ride in the UK; any ride is going to include sections of road that are rough enough to risk pinch flats, so "surface" isn't really a variable for me. :(

    – David Richerby
    11 hours ago






  • 1





    @Michael while true to a first approximation, track bikes don't have brakes and roads are neither smooth nor clean enough in general for that statement to be particularly relevant

    – Chris H
    8 hours ago



















3














A review I read says the brake calipers are own-brand and describes them as "basic" and "average". Possibly an upgrade there would help, but you'd have to decide if it's really worth spending that much money on a second-hand bike that only cost about £350 new.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    Ok thats good to know. I got the bike for free and I'm restoring it as a personal project for a bit of fun. I've already spent money on many new components, I can pickup some second hand Tiagra brakes for pretty cheap so I think I'll do that!

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 3





    If OP is actually able to lock the front wheel then the current brakes are strong enough.

    – Michael
    8 hours ago












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3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes








3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









11














You have already answered your own question really.




When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but i take longer to stop than i'm perhaps used to.




If the brakes are strong enough to lock up the wheels they have plenty of power, but you have overcome the ability of the tyre to grip the road.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    Do you think upgrading the tyres would be a good shout? I'm a little worried about the bikes ability to stop fast in traffic!

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 2





    I think upgrading the tyres to the very best you can afford is always a good shout on any bike. Tyres very much define how your bike performs. Tyres are responsible for grip (cornering and braking), rolling resistance, ride 'feel' and puncture resistance.

    – Andy P
    14 hours ago








  • 4





    Some tires come with a thick wax coating and have full grip after the wax has worn away. Is suspect yours are one of these, because on a road bike you usually lift the rear wheel before locking front. Just do some riding to break them in.

    – ojs
    13 hours ago






  • 1





    @ojs Good thinking, I hadn't thought of that. I always rub that stuff off by hand before use.

    – Andy P
    13 hours ago






  • 2





    Noting of course that "best" is a function of many variables when it comes to tyres

    – Chris H
    8 hours ago
















11














You have already answered your own question really.




When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but i take longer to stop than i'm perhaps used to.




If the brakes are strong enough to lock up the wheels they have plenty of power, but you have overcome the ability of the tyre to grip the road.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    Do you think upgrading the tyres would be a good shout? I'm a little worried about the bikes ability to stop fast in traffic!

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 2





    I think upgrading the tyres to the very best you can afford is always a good shout on any bike. Tyres very much define how your bike performs. Tyres are responsible for grip (cornering and braking), rolling resistance, ride 'feel' and puncture resistance.

    – Andy P
    14 hours ago








  • 4





    Some tires come with a thick wax coating and have full grip after the wax has worn away. Is suspect yours are one of these, because on a road bike you usually lift the rear wheel before locking front. Just do some riding to break them in.

    – ojs
    13 hours ago






  • 1





    @ojs Good thinking, I hadn't thought of that. I always rub that stuff off by hand before use.

    – Andy P
    13 hours ago






  • 2





    Noting of course that "best" is a function of many variables when it comes to tyres

    – Chris H
    8 hours ago














11












11








11







You have already answered your own question really.




When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but i take longer to stop than i'm perhaps used to.




If the brakes are strong enough to lock up the wheels they have plenty of power, but you have overcome the ability of the tyre to grip the road.






share|improve this answer













You have already answered your own question really.




When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but i take longer to stop than i'm perhaps used to.




If the brakes are strong enough to lock up the wheels they have plenty of power, but you have overcome the ability of the tyre to grip the road.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 15 hours ago









Andy PAndy P

4,419918




4,419918








  • 1





    Do you think upgrading the tyres would be a good shout? I'm a little worried about the bikes ability to stop fast in traffic!

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 2





    I think upgrading the tyres to the very best you can afford is always a good shout on any bike. Tyres very much define how your bike performs. Tyres are responsible for grip (cornering and braking), rolling resistance, ride 'feel' and puncture resistance.

    – Andy P
    14 hours ago








  • 4





    Some tires come with a thick wax coating and have full grip after the wax has worn away. Is suspect yours are one of these, because on a road bike you usually lift the rear wheel before locking front. Just do some riding to break them in.

    – ojs
    13 hours ago






  • 1





    @ojs Good thinking, I hadn't thought of that. I always rub that stuff off by hand before use.

    – Andy P
    13 hours ago






  • 2





    Noting of course that "best" is a function of many variables when it comes to tyres

    – Chris H
    8 hours ago














  • 1





    Do you think upgrading the tyres would be a good shout? I'm a little worried about the bikes ability to stop fast in traffic!

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 2





    I think upgrading the tyres to the very best you can afford is always a good shout on any bike. Tyres very much define how your bike performs. Tyres are responsible for grip (cornering and braking), rolling resistance, ride 'feel' and puncture resistance.

    – Andy P
    14 hours ago








  • 4





    Some tires come with a thick wax coating and have full grip after the wax has worn away. Is suspect yours are one of these, because on a road bike you usually lift the rear wheel before locking front. Just do some riding to break them in.

    – ojs
    13 hours ago






  • 1





    @ojs Good thinking, I hadn't thought of that. I always rub that stuff off by hand before use.

    – Andy P
    13 hours ago






  • 2





    Noting of course that "best" is a function of many variables when it comes to tyres

    – Chris H
    8 hours ago








1




1





Do you think upgrading the tyres would be a good shout? I'm a little worried about the bikes ability to stop fast in traffic!

– Axemasta
14 hours ago





Do you think upgrading the tyres would be a good shout? I'm a little worried about the bikes ability to stop fast in traffic!

– Axemasta
14 hours ago




2




2





I think upgrading the tyres to the very best you can afford is always a good shout on any bike. Tyres very much define how your bike performs. Tyres are responsible for grip (cornering and braking), rolling resistance, ride 'feel' and puncture resistance.

– Andy P
14 hours ago







I think upgrading the tyres to the very best you can afford is always a good shout on any bike. Tyres very much define how your bike performs. Tyres are responsible for grip (cornering and braking), rolling resistance, ride 'feel' and puncture resistance.

– Andy P
14 hours ago






4




4





Some tires come with a thick wax coating and have full grip after the wax has worn away. Is suspect yours are one of these, because on a road bike you usually lift the rear wheel before locking front. Just do some riding to break them in.

– ojs
13 hours ago





Some tires come with a thick wax coating and have full grip after the wax has worn away. Is suspect yours are one of these, because on a road bike you usually lift the rear wheel before locking front. Just do some riding to break them in.

– ojs
13 hours ago




1




1





@ojs Good thinking, I hadn't thought of that. I always rub that stuff off by hand before use.

– Andy P
13 hours ago





@ojs Good thinking, I hadn't thought of that. I always rub that stuff off by hand before use.

– Andy P
13 hours ago




2




2





Noting of course that "best" is a function of many variables when it comes to tyres

– Chris H
8 hours ago





Noting of course that "best" is a function of many variables when it comes to tyres

– Chris H
8 hours ago











5














The maximum braking force is achieved when the tire is just about to loose traction and start sliding on the road surface. Braking force decreases sharply as the tire begins to slide.



If you are locking both wheels, you are not getting maximum braking force, so try to modulate the force you are putting on the levers so that the wheels do not lock up. You should be able to apply more force on the front brake lever as the deceleration of your mass pushes the front tire against the road harder, making it more difficult to lock that wheel.



Also be aware that the 23mm road tires have a much smaller contact patch and therefore less grip. Higher tire pressure reduces the contact patch size, so you could try a lower tire pressure.






share|improve this answer


























  • Ok thankyou, I'm running 100psi at the moment, I'll try 80 tonight

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 1





    @Axemasta I get pinch flats on my 25mm tyres if I let the pressure get down to 80psi. Unless you're lighter than me (~73 kg), I wouldn't go below 90psi on 23mm tyres.

    – David Richerby
    13 hours ago











  • @DavidRicherby risk of pinch flats depends on the surface as well as pressure and rider mass.

    – Argenti Apparatus
    12 hours ago











  • @ArgentiApparatus I ride in the UK; any ride is going to include sections of road that are rough enough to risk pinch flats, so "surface" isn't really a variable for me. :(

    – David Richerby
    11 hours ago






  • 1





    @Michael while true to a first approximation, track bikes don't have brakes and roads are neither smooth nor clean enough in general for that statement to be particularly relevant

    – Chris H
    8 hours ago
















5














The maximum braking force is achieved when the tire is just about to loose traction and start sliding on the road surface. Braking force decreases sharply as the tire begins to slide.



If you are locking both wheels, you are not getting maximum braking force, so try to modulate the force you are putting on the levers so that the wheels do not lock up. You should be able to apply more force on the front brake lever as the deceleration of your mass pushes the front tire against the road harder, making it more difficult to lock that wheel.



Also be aware that the 23mm road tires have a much smaller contact patch and therefore less grip. Higher tire pressure reduces the contact patch size, so you could try a lower tire pressure.






share|improve this answer


























  • Ok thankyou, I'm running 100psi at the moment, I'll try 80 tonight

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 1





    @Axemasta I get pinch flats on my 25mm tyres if I let the pressure get down to 80psi. Unless you're lighter than me (~73 kg), I wouldn't go below 90psi on 23mm tyres.

    – David Richerby
    13 hours ago











  • @DavidRicherby risk of pinch flats depends on the surface as well as pressure and rider mass.

    – Argenti Apparatus
    12 hours ago











  • @ArgentiApparatus I ride in the UK; any ride is going to include sections of road that are rough enough to risk pinch flats, so "surface" isn't really a variable for me. :(

    – David Richerby
    11 hours ago






  • 1





    @Michael while true to a first approximation, track bikes don't have brakes and roads are neither smooth nor clean enough in general for that statement to be particularly relevant

    – Chris H
    8 hours ago














5












5








5







The maximum braking force is achieved when the tire is just about to loose traction and start sliding on the road surface. Braking force decreases sharply as the tire begins to slide.



If you are locking both wheels, you are not getting maximum braking force, so try to modulate the force you are putting on the levers so that the wheels do not lock up. You should be able to apply more force on the front brake lever as the deceleration of your mass pushes the front tire against the road harder, making it more difficult to lock that wheel.



Also be aware that the 23mm road tires have a much smaller contact patch and therefore less grip. Higher tire pressure reduces the contact patch size, so you could try a lower tire pressure.






share|improve this answer















The maximum braking force is achieved when the tire is just about to loose traction and start sliding on the road surface. Braking force decreases sharply as the tire begins to slide.



If you are locking both wheels, you are not getting maximum braking force, so try to modulate the force you are putting on the levers so that the wheels do not lock up. You should be able to apply more force on the front brake lever as the deceleration of your mass pushes the front tire against the road harder, making it more difficult to lock that wheel.



Also be aware that the 23mm road tires have a much smaller contact patch and therefore less grip. Higher tire pressure reduces the contact patch size, so you could try a lower tire pressure.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 9 hours ago

























answered 14 hours ago









Argenti ApparatusArgenti Apparatus

37k23891




37k23891













  • Ok thankyou, I'm running 100psi at the moment, I'll try 80 tonight

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 1





    @Axemasta I get pinch flats on my 25mm tyres if I let the pressure get down to 80psi. Unless you're lighter than me (~73 kg), I wouldn't go below 90psi on 23mm tyres.

    – David Richerby
    13 hours ago











  • @DavidRicherby risk of pinch flats depends on the surface as well as pressure and rider mass.

    – Argenti Apparatus
    12 hours ago











  • @ArgentiApparatus I ride in the UK; any ride is going to include sections of road that are rough enough to risk pinch flats, so "surface" isn't really a variable for me. :(

    – David Richerby
    11 hours ago






  • 1





    @Michael while true to a first approximation, track bikes don't have brakes and roads are neither smooth nor clean enough in general for that statement to be particularly relevant

    – Chris H
    8 hours ago



















  • Ok thankyou, I'm running 100psi at the moment, I'll try 80 tonight

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 1





    @Axemasta I get pinch flats on my 25mm tyres if I let the pressure get down to 80psi. Unless you're lighter than me (~73 kg), I wouldn't go below 90psi on 23mm tyres.

    – David Richerby
    13 hours ago











  • @DavidRicherby risk of pinch flats depends on the surface as well as pressure and rider mass.

    – Argenti Apparatus
    12 hours ago











  • @ArgentiApparatus I ride in the UK; any ride is going to include sections of road that are rough enough to risk pinch flats, so "surface" isn't really a variable for me. :(

    – David Richerby
    11 hours ago






  • 1





    @Michael while true to a first approximation, track bikes don't have brakes and roads are neither smooth nor clean enough in general for that statement to be particularly relevant

    – Chris H
    8 hours ago

















Ok thankyou, I'm running 100psi at the moment, I'll try 80 tonight

– Axemasta
14 hours ago





Ok thankyou, I'm running 100psi at the moment, I'll try 80 tonight

– Axemasta
14 hours ago




1




1





@Axemasta I get pinch flats on my 25mm tyres if I let the pressure get down to 80psi. Unless you're lighter than me (~73 kg), I wouldn't go below 90psi on 23mm tyres.

– David Richerby
13 hours ago





@Axemasta I get pinch flats on my 25mm tyres if I let the pressure get down to 80psi. Unless you're lighter than me (~73 kg), I wouldn't go below 90psi on 23mm tyres.

– David Richerby
13 hours ago













@DavidRicherby risk of pinch flats depends on the surface as well as pressure and rider mass.

– Argenti Apparatus
12 hours ago





@DavidRicherby risk of pinch flats depends on the surface as well as pressure and rider mass.

– Argenti Apparatus
12 hours ago













@ArgentiApparatus I ride in the UK; any ride is going to include sections of road that are rough enough to risk pinch flats, so "surface" isn't really a variable for me. :(

– David Richerby
11 hours ago





@ArgentiApparatus I ride in the UK; any ride is going to include sections of road that are rough enough to risk pinch flats, so "surface" isn't really a variable for me. :(

– David Richerby
11 hours ago




1




1





@Michael while true to a first approximation, track bikes don't have brakes and roads are neither smooth nor clean enough in general for that statement to be particularly relevant

– Chris H
8 hours ago





@Michael while true to a first approximation, track bikes don't have brakes and roads are neither smooth nor clean enough in general for that statement to be particularly relevant

– Chris H
8 hours ago











3














A review I read says the brake calipers are own-brand and describes them as "basic" and "average". Possibly an upgrade there would help, but you'd have to decide if it's really worth spending that much money on a second-hand bike that only cost about £350 new.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    Ok thats good to know. I got the bike for free and I'm restoring it as a personal project for a bit of fun. I've already spent money on many new components, I can pickup some second hand Tiagra brakes for pretty cheap so I think I'll do that!

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 3





    If OP is actually able to lock the front wheel then the current brakes are strong enough.

    – Michael
    8 hours ago
















3














A review I read says the brake calipers are own-brand and describes them as "basic" and "average". Possibly an upgrade there would help, but you'd have to decide if it's really worth spending that much money on a second-hand bike that only cost about £350 new.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    Ok thats good to know. I got the bike for free and I'm restoring it as a personal project for a bit of fun. I've already spent money on many new components, I can pickup some second hand Tiagra brakes for pretty cheap so I think I'll do that!

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 3





    If OP is actually able to lock the front wheel then the current brakes are strong enough.

    – Michael
    8 hours ago














3












3








3







A review I read says the brake calipers are own-brand and describes them as "basic" and "average". Possibly an upgrade there would help, but you'd have to decide if it's really worth spending that much money on a second-hand bike that only cost about £350 new.






share|improve this answer













A review I read says the brake calipers are own-brand and describes them as "basic" and "average". Possibly an upgrade there would help, but you'd have to decide if it's really worth spending that much money on a second-hand bike that only cost about £350 new.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 14 hours ago









David RicherbyDavid Richerby

13.1k33466




13.1k33466








  • 1





    Ok thats good to know. I got the bike for free and I'm restoring it as a personal project for a bit of fun. I've already spent money on many new components, I can pickup some second hand Tiagra brakes for pretty cheap so I think I'll do that!

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 3





    If OP is actually able to lock the front wheel then the current brakes are strong enough.

    – Michael
    8 hours ago














  • 1





    Ok thats good to know. I got the bike for free and I'm restoring it as a personal project for a bit of fun. I've already spent money on many new components, I can pickup some second hand Tiagra brakes for pretty cheap so I think I'll do that!

    – Axemasta
    14 hours ago






  • 3





    If OP is actually able to lock the front wheel then the current brakes are strong enough.

    – Michael
    8 hours ago








1




1





Ok thats good to know. I got the bike for free and I'm restoring it as a personal project for a bit of fun. I've already spent money on many new components, I can pickup some second hand Tiagra brakes for pretty cheap so I think I'll do that!

– Axemasta
14 hours ago





Ok thats good to know. I got the bike for free and I'm restoring it as a personal project for a bit of fun. I've already spent money on many new components, I can pickup some second hand Tiagra brakes for pretty cheap so I think I'll do that!

– Axemasta
14 hours ago




3




3





If OP is actually able to lock the front wheel then the current brakes are strong enough.

– Michael
8 hours ago





If OP is actually able to lock the front wheel then the current brakes are strong enough.

– Michael
8 hours ago










Axemasta is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










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