Is it possible to convert a suspension fork to rigid by drilling it?












5















I have been given a Falcon MTB. I've sorted out all its troubles but the front suspension fork is worn.
When using the front brake the slack in the tubes make them judder. Is there anyway I can "solidify" the fork as I don't need suspension. Can I drill it back to front and put a bolt through or something like that?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Harry is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.

    – Swifty
    yesterday











  • I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    yesterday


















5















I have been given a Falcon MTB. I've sorted out all its troubles but the front suspension fork is worn.
When using the front brake the slack in the tubes make them judder. Is there anyway I can "solidify" the fork as I don't need suspension. Can I drill it back to front and put a bolt through or something like that?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Harry is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.

    – Swifty
    yesterday











  • I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    yesterday
















5












5








5








I have been given a Falcon MTB. I've sorted out all its troubles but the front suspension fork is worn.
When using the front brake the slack in the tubes make them judder. Is there anyway I can "solidify" the fork as I don't need suspension. Can I drill it back to front and put a bolt through or something like that?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Harry is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I have been given a Falcon MTB. I've sorted out all its troubles but the front suspension fork is worn.
When using the front brake the slack in the tubes make them judder. Is there anyway I can "solidify" the fork as I don't need suspension. Can I drill it back to front and put a bolt through or something like that?







fork suspension modification






share|improve this question









New contributor




Harry is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




Harry is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited yesterday









Grigory Rechistov

4,6361829




4,6361829






New contributor




Harry is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked yesterday









HarryHarry

484




484




New contributor




Harry is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





Harry is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Harry is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.













  • Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.

    – Swifty
    yesterday











  • I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    yesterday





















  • Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.

    – Swifty
    yesterday











  • I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    yesterday



















Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.

– Swifty
yesterday





Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.

– Swifty
yesterday













I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.

– Daniel R Hicks
yesterday







I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.

– Daniel R Hicks
yesterday












4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes


















4














As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. But if you still want to go DIY I will give you a couple approaches.



What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. You can also use aluminium or steel.



enter image description here



About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger.



Tappered grommet






share|improve this answer
























  • My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.

    – Harry
    yesterday











  • Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,

    – Criggie
    yesterday



















9














DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS



That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby.



Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.

    – Harry
    yesterday



















4














You seem handy with tools. Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike.



Things to look for in a replacement fork:




  • Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded)

  • Same steerer outside diameter

  • Enough length in the steerer

  • Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever.

  • If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too.


Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork.



You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner.



Where to source a fork? Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices.



Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. Then your N is 2.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.

    – Harry
    yesterday



















1














The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.



The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.



The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested.






share|improve this answer
























  • Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.

    – Harry
    10 hours ago













  • @Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.

    – Rider_X
    7 hours ago













Your Answer








StackExchange.ready(function() {
var channelOptions = {
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "126"
};
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
createEditor();
});
}
else {
createEditor();
}
});

function createEditor() {
StackExchange.prepareEditor({
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader: {
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
},
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
});


}
});






Harry is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










draft saved

draft discarded


















StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fbicycles.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f59660%2fis-it-possible-to-convert-a-suspension-fork-to-rigid-by-drilling-it%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);

Post as a guest















Required, but never shown

























4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes








4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









4














As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. But if you still want to go DIY I will give you a couple approaches.



What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. You can also use aluminium or steel.



enter image description here



About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger.



Tappered grommet






share|improve this answer
























  • My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.

    – Harry
    yesterday











  • Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,

    – Criggie
    yesterday
















4














As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. But if you still want to go DIY I will give you a couple approaches.



What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. You can also use aluminium or steel.



enter image description here



About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger.



Tappered grommet






share|improve this answer
























  • My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.

    – Harry
    yesterday











  • Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,

    – Criggie
    yesterday














4












4








4







As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. But if you still want to go DIY I will give you a couple approaches.



What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. You can also use aluminium or steel.



enter image description here



About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger.



Tappered grommet






share|improve this answer













As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. But if you still want to go DIY I will give you a couple approaches.



What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. You can also use aluminium or steel.



enter image description here



About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger.



Tappered grommet







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered yesterday









dmbdmb

57828




57828













  • My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.

    – Harry
    yesterday











  • Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,

    – Criggie
    yesterday



















  • My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.

    – Harry
    yesterday











  • Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,

    – Criggie
    yesterday

















My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.

– Harry
yesterday





My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.

– Harry
yesterday













Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,

– Criggie
yesterday





Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,

– Criggie
yesterday











9














DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS



That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby.



Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.

    – Harry
    yesterday
















9














DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS



That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby.



Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.

    – Harry
    yesterday














9












9








9







DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS



That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby.



Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks.






share|improve this answer













DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS



That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby.



Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered yesterday









David RicherbyDavid Richerby

12.4k33462




12.4k33462








  • 1





    I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.

    – Harry
    yesterday














  • 1





    I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.

    – Harry
    yesterday








1




1





I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.

– Harry
yesterday





I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.

– Harry
yesterday











4














You seem handy with tools. Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike.



Things to look for in a replacement fork:




  • Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded)

  • Same steerer outside diameter

  • Enough length in the steerer

  • Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever.

  • If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too.


Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork.



You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner.



Where to source a fork? Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices.



Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. Then your N is 2.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.

    – Harry
    yesterday
















4














You seem handy with tools. Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike.



Things to look for in a replacement fork:




  • Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded)

  • Same steerer outside diameter

  • Enough length in the steerer

  • Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever.

  • If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too.


Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork.



You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner.



Where to source a fork? Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices.



Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. Then your N is 2.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.

    – Harry
    yesterday














4












4








4







You seem handy with tools. Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike.



Things to look for in a replacement fork:




  • Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded)

  • Same steerer outside diameter

  • Enough length in the steerer

  • Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever.

  • If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too.


Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork.



You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner.



Where to source a fork? Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices.



Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. Then your N is 2.






share|improve this answer













You seem handy with tools. Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike.



Things to look for in a replacement fork:




  • Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded)

  • Same steerer outside diameter

  • Enough length in the steerer

  • Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever.

  • If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too.


Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork.



You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner.



Where to source a fork? Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices.



Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. Then your N is 2.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered yesterday









CriggieCriggie

44.4k573151




44.4k573151








  • 1





    Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.

    – Harry
    yesterday














  • 1





    Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.

    – Harry
    yesterday








1




1





Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.

– Harry
yesterday





Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.

– Harry
yesterday











1














The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.



The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.



The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested.






share|improve this answer
























  • Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.

    – Harry
    10 hours ago













  • @Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.

    – Rider_X
    7 hours ago


















1














The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.



The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.



The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested.






share|improve this answer
























  • Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.

    – Harry
    10 hours ago













  • @Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.

    – Rider_X
    7 hours ago
















1












1








1







The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.



The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.



The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested.






share|improve this answer













The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.



The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.



The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered yesterday









Rider_XRider_X

24.4k14592




24.4k14592













  • Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.

    – Harry
    10 hours ago













  • @Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.

    – Rider_X
    7 hours ago





















  • Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.

    – Harry
    10 hours ago













  • @Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.

    – Rider_X
    7 hours ago



















Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.

– Harry
10 hours ago







Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.

– Harry
10 hours ago















@Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.

– Rider_X
7 hours ago







@Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.

– Rider_X
7 hours ago












Harry is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










draft saved

draft discarded


















Harry is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.













Harry is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.












Harry is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
















Thanks for contributing an answer to Bicycles Stack Exchange!


  • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

But avoid



  • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

  • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.


To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




draft saved


draft discarded














StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fbicycles.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f59660%2fis-it-possible-to-convert-a-suspension-fork-to-rigid-by-drilling-it%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);

Post as a guest















Required, but never shown





















































Required, but never shown














Required, but never shown












Required, but never shown







Required, but never shown

































Required, but never shown














Required, but never shown












Required, but never shown







Required, but never shown







Popular posts from this blog

How to label and detect the document text images

Vallis Paradisi

Tabula Rosettana