Is it possible to convert a suspension fork to rigid by drilling it?
I have been given a Falcon MTB. I've sorted out all its troubles but the front suspension fork is worn.
When using the front brake the slack in the tubes make them judder. Is there anyway I can "solidify" the fork as I don't need suspension. Can I drill it back to front and put a bolt through or something like that?
fork suspension modification
New contributor
add a comment |
I have been given a Falcon MTB. I've sorted out all its troubles but the front suspension fork is worn.
When using the front brake the slack in the tubes make them judder. Is there anyway I can "solidify" the fork as I don't need suspension. Can I drill it back to front and put a bolt through or something like that?
fork suspension modification
New contributor
Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.
– Swifty
yesterday
I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.
– Daniel R Hicks
yesterday
add a comment |
I have been given a Falcon MTB. I've sorted out all its troubles but the front suspension fork is worn.
When using the front brake the slack in the tubes make them judder. Is there anyway I can "solidify" the fork as I don't need suspension. Can I drill it back to front and put a bolt through or something like that?
fork suspension modification
New contributor
I have been given a Falcon MTB. I've sorted out all its troubles but the front suspension fork is worn.
When using the front brake the slack in the tubes make them judder. Is there anyway I can "solidify" the fork as I don't need suspension. Can I drill it back to front and put a bolt through or something like that?
fork suspension modification
fork suspension modification
New contributor
New contributor
edited yesterday
Grigory Rechistov
4,6361829
4,6361829
New contributor
asked yesterday
HarryHarry
484
484
New contributor
New contributor
Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.
– Swifty
yesterday
I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.
– Daniel R Hicks
yesterday
add a comment |
Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.
– Swifty
yesterday
I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.
– Daniel R Hicks
yesterday
Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.
– Swifty
yesterday
Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.
– Swifty
yesterday
I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.
– Daniel R Hicks
yesterday
I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.
– Daniel R Hicks
yesterday
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. But if you still want to go DIY I will give you a couple approaches.
What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. You can also use aluminium or steel.
About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger.
My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.
– Harry
yesterday
Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,
– Criggie♦
yesterday
add a comment |
DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS
That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby.
Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks.
1
I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.
– Harry
yesterday
add a comment |
You seem handy with tools. Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike.
Things to look for in a replacement fork:
- Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded)
- Same steerer outside diameter
- Enough length in the steerer
- Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever.
- If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too.
Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork.
You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner.
Where to source a fork? Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices.
Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. Then your N is 2.
1
Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.
– Harry
yesterday
add a comment |
The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.
The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.
The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested.
Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.
– Harry
10 hours ago
@Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.
– Rider_X
7 hours ago
add a comment |
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4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. But if you still want to go DIY I will give you a couple approaches.
What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. You can also use aluminium or steel.
About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger.
My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.
– Harry
yesterday
Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,
– Criggie♦
yesterday
add a comment |
As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. But if you still want to go DIY I will give you a couple approaches.
What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. You can also use aluminium or steel.
About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger.
My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.
– Harry
yesterday
Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,
– Criggie♦
yesterday
add a comment |
As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. But if you still want to go DIY I will give you a couple approaches.
What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. You can also use aluminium or steel.
About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger.
As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. But if you still want to go DIY I will give you a couple approaches.
What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. You can also use aluminium or steel.
About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger.
answered yesterday
dmbdmb
57828
57828
My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.
– Harry
yesterday
Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,
– Criggie♦
yesterday
add a comment |
My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.
– Harry
yesterday
Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,
– Criggie♦
yesterday
My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.
– Harry
yesterday
My problem is not "suspension, to have or not" it's the irritating judder when using the front brake. I'd just like to stop that without spending too much. Only pedalling 2km to and from my bowling club. I'll pull them apart and see what can be done. Failing that there are some used forks around.
– Harry
yesterday
Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,
– Criggie♦
yesterday
Good idea - the only downside is you're still carrying around the weight of the dead suspension, but it does restore rideability to the bike,
– Criggie♦
yesterday
add a comment |
DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS
That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby.
Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks.
1
I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.
– Harry
yesterday
add a comment |
DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS
That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby.
Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks.
1
I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.
– Harry
yesterday
add a comment |
DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS
That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby.
Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks.
DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS
That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby.
Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks.
answered yesterday
David RicherbyDavid Richerby
12.4k33462
12.4k33462
1
I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.
– Harry
yesterday
add a comment |
1
I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.
– Harry
yesterday
1
1
I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.
– Harry
yesterday
I thought of rigid but they need to be "suspension compensated" by 80-100mm which whacks up the price. Looking for used but not abused now.
– Harry
yesterday
add a comment |
You seem handy with tools. Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike.
Things to look for in a replacement fork:
- Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded)
- Same steerer outside diameter
- Enough length in the steerer
- Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever.
- If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too.
Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork.
You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner.
Where to source a fork? Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices.
Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. Then your N is 2.
1
Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.
– Harry
yesterday
add a comment |
You seem handy with tools. Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike.
Things to look for in a replacement fork:
- Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded)
- Same steerer outside diameter
- Enough length in the steerer
- Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever.
- If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too.
Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork.
You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner.
Where to source a fork? Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices.
Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. Then your N is 2.
1
Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.
– Harry
yesterday
add a comment |
You seem handy with tools. Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike.
Things to look for in a replacement fork:
- Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded)
- Same steerer outside diameter
- Enough length in the steerer
- Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever.
- If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too.
Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork.
You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner.
Where to source a fork? Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices.
Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. Then your N is 2.
You seem handy with tools. Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike.
Things to look for in a replacement fork:
- Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded)
- Same steerer outside diameter
- Enough length in the steerer
- Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever.
- If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too.
Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork.
You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner.
Where to source a fork? Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices.
Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. Then your N is 2.
answered yesterday
Criggie♦Criggie
44.4k573151
44.4k573151
1
Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.
– Harry
yesterday
add a comment |
1
Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.
– Harry
yesterday
1
1
Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.
– Harry
yesterday
Been on a steep learning curve regarding forks etc. Last time I owned/fixed a bike was 40 years ago when everything was fairly standard and interchangeable.
– Harry
yesterday
add a comment |
The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.
The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.
The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested.
Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.
– Harry
10 hours ago
@Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.
– Rider_X
7 hours ago
add a comment |
The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.
The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.
The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested.
Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.
– Harry
10 hours ago
@Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.
– Rider_X
7 hours ago
add a comment |
The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.
The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.
The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested.
The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.
The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.
The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested.
answered yesterday
Rider_XRider_X
24.4k14592
24.4k14592
Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.
– Harry
10 hours ago
@Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.
– Rider_X
7 hours ago
add a comment |
Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.
– Harry
10 hours ago
@Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.
– Rider_X
7 hours ago
Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.
– Harry
10 hours ago
Unfortunately suspension compensated rigid forks are hard to find and not cheap. I'll pull them apart early next week, see what can be done. If I can't repair them then one idea is to put spacers in the bottom as per earlier suggestion to stop the suspension. I could then perhaps crush the lower inner end so they are oval to eliminate the slack.
– Harry
10 hours ago
@Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.
– Rider_X
7 hours ago
@Harry the fork lowers are often made of alloys that will crack and shatter rather than be crush-able like steel. You might be able to shim the bushings with something very thin (e.g., foil wrapper) to take up slack if you fix the suspension travel.
– Rider_X
7 hours ago
add a comment |
Harry is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Harry is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Harry is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Harry is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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Make sure the judder isn’t made worse by a loose headset adjustment. There are no doubt methods searchable online but easy tip is if you can rotate the headset spacers there’s a chance it’s too loose.
– Swifty
yesterday
I have speculated that you could "lock" some shock designs by obtaining a piece of PVC plastic drain pipe of appropriate dimensions, slicing it in half lengthwise, and strapping it around the strut, perhaps with some bits of rubber at the ends.
– Daniel R Hicks
yesterday