okay to use fatter/longer extension cord than spec'd for power tools?
I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?
I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?
(apologies if this is not the best forum for my question, feel free to suggest a more appropriate forum in comments)
powertools extension-cord
asked 1 hour ago
TimCOTimCO
212
add a comment |
I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?
I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?
(apologies if this is not the best forum for my question, feel free to suggest a more appropriate forum in comments)
powertools extension-cord
asked 1 hour ago
TimCOTimCO
212
add a comment |
I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?
I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?
(apologies if this is not the best forum for my question, feel free to suggest a more appropriate forum in comments)
powertools extension-cord
asked 1 hour ago
TimCOTimCO
212
I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?
I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?
(apologies if this is not the best forum for my question, feel free to suggest a more appropriate forum in comments)
powertools extension-cord
powertools extension-cord
asked 1 hour ago
TimCOTimCO
212
asked 1 hour ago
TimCOTimCO
212
edited 1 hour ago
TimCO
asked 1 hour ago
TimCOTimCO
212
asked 1 hour ago
TimCOTimCO
212
asked 1 hour ago
TimCOTimCO
212
212
add a comment |
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
The main issue is voltage drop in circuit. The voltage drop affecting the saw will depend on the length and gauge of the extension cord.
However voltage drop is a factor even right at the receptacle; the length of the wiring to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, then load on your service as a whole, the length of your service conductors, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage.
You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 voltss at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord.
Testing voltage at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore.
answered 1 hour ago
batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson
10.6k11230
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
1 hour ago
2
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
14 mins ago
add a comment |
Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.
I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.
answered 1 hour ago
isherwoodisherwood
46.6k455120
1
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
1 hour ago
add a comment |
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
The main issue is voltage drop in circuit. The voltage drop affecting the saw will depend on the length and gauge of the extension cord.
However voltage drop is a factor even right at the receptacle; the length of the wiring to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, then load on your service as a whole, the length of your service conductors, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage.
You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 voltss at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord.
Testing voltage at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore.
answered 1 hour ago
batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson
10.6k11230
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
1 hour ago
2
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
14 mins ago
add a comment |
The main issue is voltage drop in circuit. The voltage drop affecting the saw will depend on the length and gauge of the extension cord.
However voltage drop is a factor even right at the receptacle; the length of the wiring to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, then load on your service as a whole, the length of your service conductors, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage.
You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 voltss at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord.
Testing voltage at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore.
answered 1 hour ago
batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson
10.6k11230
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
1 hour ago
2
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
14 mins ago
add a comment |
The main issue is voltage drop in circuit. The voltage drop affecting the saw will depend on the length and gauge of the extension cord.
However voltage drop is a factor even right at the receptacle; the length of the wiring to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, then load on your service as a whole, the length of your service conductors, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage.
You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 voltss at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord.
Testing voltage at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore.
answered 1 hour ago
batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson
10.6k11230
The main issue is voltage drop in circuit. The voltage drop affecting the saw will depend on the length and gauge of the extension cord.
However voltage drop is a factor even right at the receptacle; the length of the wiring to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, then load on your service as a whole, the length of your service conductors, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage.
You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 voltss at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord.
Testing voltage at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore.
answered 1 hour ago
batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson
10.6k11230
answered 1 hour ago
batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson
10.6k11230
answered 1 hour ago
batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson
10.6k11230
answered 1 hour ago
batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson
10.6k11230
10.6k11230
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
1 hour ago
2
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
14 mins ago
add a comment |
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
1 hour ago
2
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
14 mins ago
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
1 hour ago
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
1 hour ago
2
2
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
1 hour ago
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
14 mins ago
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
14 mins ago
add a comment |
Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.
I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.
answered 1 hour ago
isherwoodisherwood
46.6k455120
1
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.
I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.
answered 1 hour ago
isherwoodisherwood
46.6k455120
1
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
1 hour ago
add a comment |
Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.
I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.
answered 1 hour ago
isherwoodisherwood
46.6k455120
Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.
I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.
answered 1 hour ago
isherwoodisherwood
46.6k455120
edited 1 hour ago
answered 1 hour ago
isherwoodisherwood
46.6k455120
answered 1 hour ago
isherwoodisherwood
46.6k455120
answered 1 hour ago
isherwoodisherwood
46.6k455120
46.6k455120
1
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
1 hour ago
add a comment |
1
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
1 hour ago
1
1
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
1 hour ago
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
1 hour ago
add a comment |
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