How can I fix this gap between bookcases I made?
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I just built two bookcases to line the wall of a room in my house and apparently didn't build them square enough so, when I put them next to each other, I get this giant gap. (I think the one on the right is pretty square but the one on the left appears to lean to the left at the top.)
Any suggestions on how I can make this look a little less crappy? The shelves are going to be sanded, spackled, caulked, and painted. One thought I had would be to remove the vertical strips of molding where the two bookcases meet (there is 3/4" square molding on all the edges) and make one custom piece that attaches to both. This piece would be wider at the top and taper at the bottom. Maybe that would look bad--I don't know. It also wouldn't address the gap on the top horizontal surface.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
woodworking furniture carpentry
asked yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
add a comment |
I just built two bookcases to line the wall of a room in my house and apparently didn't build them square enough so, when I put them next to each other, I get this giant gap. (I think the one on the right is pretty square but the one on the left appears to lean to the left at the top.)
Any suggestions on how I can make this look a little less crappy? The shelves are going to be sanded, spackled, caulked, and painted. One thought I had would be to remove the vertical strips of molding where the two bookcases meet (there is 3/4" square molding on all the edges) and make one custom piece that attaches to both. This piece would be wider at the top and taper at the bottom. Maybe that would look bad--I don't know. It also wouldn't address the gap on the top horizontal surface.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
woodworking furniture carpentry
asked yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
17
Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
11
You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
1
@MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.
– Jasper
yesterday
@MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.
– Eric Lippert
6 hours ago
add a comment |
I just built two bookcases to line the wall of a room in my house and apparently didn't build them square enough so, when I put them next to each other, I get this giant gap. (I think the one on the right is pretty square but the one on the left appears to lean to the left at the top.)
Any suggestions on how I can make this look a little less crappy? The shelves are going to be sanded, spackled, caulked, and painted. One thought I had would be to remove the vertical strips of molding where the two bookcases meet (there is 3/4" square molding on all the edges) and make one custom piece that attaches to both. This piece would be wider at the top and taper at the bottom. Maybe that would look bad--I don't know. It also wouldn't address the gap on the top horizontal surface.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
woodworking furniture carpentry
asked yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
I just built two bookcases to line the wall of a room in my house and apparently didn't build them square enough so, when I put them next to each other, I get this giant gap. (I think the one on the right is pretty square but the one on the left appears to lean to the left at the top.)
Any suggestions on how I can make this look a little less crappy? The shelves are going to be sanded, spackled, caulked, and painted. One thought I had would be to remove the vertical strips of molding where the two bookcases meet (there is 3/4" square molding on all the edges) and make one custom piece that attaches to both. This piece would be wider at the top and taper at the bottom. Maybe that would look bad--I don't know. It also wouldn't address the gap on the top horizontal surface.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
woodworking furniture carpentry
woodworking furniture carpentry
asked yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
asked yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
asked yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
asked yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
asked yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
423312
17
Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
11
You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
1
@MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.
– Jasper
yesterday
@MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.
– Eric Lippert
6 hours ago
add a comment |
17
Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
11
You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
1
@MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.
– Jasper
yesterday
@MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.
– Eric Lippert
6 hours ago
17
17
Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
11
11
You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
1
1
@MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.
– Jasper
yesterday
@MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.
– Jasper
yesterday
@MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.
– Eric Lippert
6 hours ago
@MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.
– Eric Lippert
6 hours ago
add a comment |
5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
Swap their positions.
Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.
Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.
If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.
answered yesterday
A. I. BreveleriA. I. Breveleri
7,6871924
17
Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.
– bitsmack
yesterday
It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.
– Ismael Miguel
12 hours ago
add a comment |
You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.
If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.
answered yesterday
Solar MikeSolar Mike
97028
Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles
– WoJ
17 hours ago
@WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?
– WoJ
17 hours ago
2
Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.
– WoJ
17 hours ago
3
@WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
|
show 11 more comments
Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. Thanks for the input!
answered yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
1
Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!
– ruffle
yesterday
3
Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.
– RedSonja
23 hours ago
1
So you had frame square or went and bought one?
– Solar Mike
23 hours ago
I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
add a comment |
I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.
answered 23 hours ago
DorisDoris
1612
New contributor
Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
add a comment |
If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units. Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them.
answered yesterday
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
add a comment |
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5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Swap their positions.
Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.
Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.
If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.
answered yesterday
A. I. BreveleriA. I. Breveleri
7,6871924
17
Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.
– bitsmack
yesterday
It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.
– Ismael Miguel
12 hours ago
add a comment |
Swap their positions.
Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.
Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.
If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.
answered yesterday
A. I. BreveleriA. I. Breveleri
7,6871924
17
Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.
– bitsmack
yesterday
It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.
– Ismael Miguel
12 hours ago
add a comment |
Swap their positions.
Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.
Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.
If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.
answered yesterday
A. I. BreveleriA. I. Breveleri
7,6871924
Swap their positions.
Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.
Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.
If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.
answered yesterday
A. I. BreveleriA. I. Breveleri
7,6871924
answered yesterday
A. I. BreveleriA. I. Breveleri
7,6871924
answered yesterday
A. I. BreveleriA. I. Breveleri
7,6871924
answered yesterday
A. I. BreveleriA. I. Breveleri
7,6871924
7,6871924
17
Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.
– bitsmack
yesterday
It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.
– Ismael Miguel
12 hours ago
add a comment |
17
Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.
– bitsmack
yesterday
It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.
– Ismael Miguel
12 hours ago
17
17
Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.
– bitsmack
yesterday
Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.
– bitsmack
yesterday
It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.
– Ismael Miguel
12 hours ago
It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.
– Ismael Miguel
12 hours ago
add a comment |
You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.
If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.
answered yesterday
Solar MikeSolar Mike
97028
Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles
– WoJ
17 hours ago
@WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?
– WoJ
17 hours ago
2
Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.
– WoJ
17 hours ago
3
@WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
|
show 11 more comments
You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.
If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.
answered yesterday
Solar MikeSolar Mike
97028
Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles
– WoJ
17 hours ago
@WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?
– WoJ
17 hours ago
2
Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.
– WoJ
17 hours ago
3
@WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
|
show 11 more comments
You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.
If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.
answered yesterday
Solar MikeSolar Mike
97028
You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.
If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.
answered yesterday
Solar MikeSolar Mike
97028
answered yesterday
Solar MikeSolar Mike
97028
answered yesterday
Solar MikeSolar Mike
97028
answered yesterday
Solar MikeSolar Mike
97028
97028
Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles
– WoJ
17 hours ago
@WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?
– WoJ
17 hours ago
2
Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.
– WoJ
17 hours ago
3
@WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
|
show 11 more comments
Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles
– WoJ
17 hours ago
@WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?
– WoJ
17 hours ago
2
Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.
– WoJ
17 hours ago
3
@WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles
– WoJ
17 hours ago
Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles
– WoJ
17 hours ago
@WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
@WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?
– WoJ
17 hours ago
I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?
– WoJ
17 hours ago
2
2
Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.
– WoJ
17 hours ago
Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.
– WoJ
17 hours ago
3
3
@WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
@WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…
– Solar Mike
17 hours ago
|
show 11 more comments
Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. Thanks for the input!
answered yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
1
Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!
– ruffle
yesterday
3
Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.
– RedSonja
23 hours ago
1
So you had frame square or went and bought one?
– Solar Mike
23 hours ago
I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
add a comment |
Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. Thanks for the input!
answered yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
1
Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!
– ruffle
yesterday
3
Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.
– RedSonja
23 hours ago
1
So you had frame square or went and bought one?
– Solar Mike
23 hours ago
I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
add a comment |
Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. Thanks for the input!
answered yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. Thanks for the input!
answered yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
answered yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
answered yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
answered yesterday
johnnyb1970johnnyb1970
423312
423312
1
Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!
– ruffle
yesterday
3
Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.
– RedSonja
23 hours ago
1
So you had frame square or went and bought one?
– Solar Mike
23 hours ago
I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
add a comment |
1
Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!
– ruffle
yesterday
3
Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.
– RedSonja
23 hours ago
1
So you had frame square or went and bought one?
– Solar Mike
23 hours ago
I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
1
1
Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!
– ruffle
yesterday
Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!
– ruffle
yesterday
3
3
Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.
– RedSonja
23 hours ago
Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.
– RedSonja
23 hours ago
1
1
So you had frame square or went and bought one?
– Solar Mike
23 hours ago
So you had frame square or went and bought one?
– Solar Mike
23 hours ago
I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
add a comment |
I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.
answered 23 hours ago
DorisDoris
1612
New contributor
Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
add a comment |
I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.
answered 23 hours ago
DorisDoris
1612
New contributor
Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
add a comment |
I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.
answered 23 hours ago
DorisDoris
1612
New contributor
Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.
answered 23 hours ago
DorisDoris
1612
New contributor
Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 23 hours ago
DorisDoris
1612
New contributor
Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 23 hours ago
DorisDoris
1612
answered 23 hours ago
DorisDoris
1612
1612
New contributor
Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
add a comment |
Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.
– johnnyb1970
10 hours ago
add a comment |
If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units. Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them.
answered yesterday
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
add a comment |
If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units. Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them.
answered yesterday
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
add a comment |
If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units. Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them.
answered yesterday
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units. Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them.
answered yesterday
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
answered yesterday
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
answered yesterday
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
answered yesterday
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.9k11332
11.9k11332
add a comment |
add a comment |
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17
Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
11
You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.
– Michael Karas♦
yesterday
1
@MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.
– Jasper
yesterday
@MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.
– Eric Lippert
6 hours ago