Possible Leak In Concrete
I recently noticed that our outside wall has a wet looking spot around the faucet.

I tried looking in the wall at the pipe (from the unfinished basement), but
- I couldn’t see very far because the hole is small (maybe could see an inch into the wall) and
- I couldn’t see any condensation from what I could see.
Is there anyway to easily diagnose if there is a leak? There is a little bit of clearance around the pipe hole, but not much.
concrete pipe
|
show 6 more comments
I recently noticed that our outside wall has a wet looking spot around the faucet.

I tried looking in the wall at the pipe (from the unfinished basement), but
- I couldn’t see very far because the hole is small (maybe could see an inch into the wall) and
- I couldn’t see any condensation from what I could see.
Is there anyway to easily diagnose if there is a leak? There is a little bit of clearance around the pipe hole, but not much.
concrete pipe
What do you mean from the inside? Is there a basement where you can easily access the inside of this concrete wall/foundation?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
@JPhi1618 yes, I'll update
– Greg
7 hours ago
There is a good chance it is wicking upward as long-standing water issues do travel northing in concrete to a degree. However the slight "crack" you have at the top makes me think this is at the faucet or higher. This does need to get fixed. You need to open things in basement, as any plumber would need that access.
– DMoore
7 hours ago
@DMoore thanks for the reply.Open things in the basement- the pipe goes directly in the foundation in the basement. Would a plumber be able to deal with the concrete or would this require someone "breaking" the concrete (not sure if this is the correct terminology) around the pipe?
– Greg
6 hours ago
1
@Greg, well if freezes are ever a concern, you might as well replace it with one of these if it does end up needing replacement. They shut the water off inside the house so it's never exposed to the cold outside the walls.
– JPhi1618
4 hours ago
|
show 6 more comments
I recently noticed that our outside wall has a wet looking spot around the faucet.

I tried looking in the wall at the pipe (from the unfinished basement), but
- I couldn’t see very far because the hole is small (maybe could see an inch into the wall) and
- I couldn’t see any condensation from what I could see.
Is there anyway to easily diagnose if there is a leak? There is a little bit of clearance around the pipe hole, but not much.
concrete pipe
I recently noticed that our outside wall has a wet looking spot around the faucet.

I tried looking in the wall at the pipe (from the unfinished basement), but
- I couldn’t see very far because the hole is small (maybe could see an inch into the wall) and
- I couldn’t see any condensation from what I could see.
Is there anyway to easily diagnose if there is a leak? There is a little bit of clearance around the pipe hole, but not much.
concrete pipe
concrete pipe
edited 5 hours ago
FreeMan
683311
683311
asked 7 hours ago
GregGreg
1214
1214
What do you mean from the inside? Is there a basement where you can easily access the inside of this concrete wall/foundation?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
@JPhi1618 yes, I'll update
– Greg
7 hours ago
There is a good chance it is wicking upward as long-standing water issues do travel northing in concrete to a degree. However the slight "crack" you have at the top makes me think this is at the faucet or higher. This does need to get fixed. You need to open things in basement, as any plumber would need that access.
– DMoore
7 hours ago
@DMoore thanks for the reply.Open things in the basement- the pipe goes directly in the foundation in the basement. Would a plumber be able to deal with the concrete or would this require someone "breaking" the concrete (not sure if this is the correct terminology) around the pipe?
– Greg
6 hours ago
1
@Greg, well if freezes are ever a concern, you might as well replace it with one of these if it does end up needing replacement. They shut the water off inside the house so it's never exposed to the cold outside the walls.
– JPhi1618
4 hours ago
|
show 6 more comments
What do you mean from the inside? Is there a basement where you can easily access the inside of this concrete wall/foundation?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
@JPhi1618 yes, I'll update
– Greg
7 hours ago
There is a good chance it is wicking upward as long-standing water issues do travel northing in concrete to a degree. However the slight "crack" you have at the top makes me think this is at the faucet or higher. This does need to get fixed. You need to open things in basement, as any plumber would need that access.
– DMoore
7 hours ago
@DMoore thanks for the reply.Open things in the basement- the pipe goes directly in the foundation in the basement. Would a plumber be able to deal with the concrete or would this require someone "breaking" the concrete (not sure if this is the correct terminology) around the pipe?
– Greg
6 hours ago
1
@Greg, well if freezes are ever a concern, you might as well replace it with one of these if it does end up needing replacement. They shut the water off inside the house so it's never exposed to the cold outside the walls.
– JPhi1618
4 hours ago
What do you mean from the inside? Is there a basement where you can easily access the inside of this concrete wall/foundation?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
What do you mean from the inside? Is there a basement where you can easily access the inside of this concrete wall/foundation?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
@JPhi1618 yes, I'll update
– Greg
7 hours ago
@JPhi1618 yes, I'll update
– Greg
7 hours ago
There is a good chance it is wicking upward as long-standing water issues do travel northing in concrete to a degree. However the slight "crack" you have at the top makes me think this is at the faucet or higher. This does need to get fixed. You need to open things in basement, as any plumber would need that access.
– DMoore
7 hours ago
There is a good chance it is wicking upward as long-standing water issues do travel northing in concrete to a degree. However the slight "crack" you have at the top makes me think this is at the faucet or higher. This does need to get fixed. You need to open things in basement, as any plumber would need that access.
– DMoore
7 hours ago
@DMoore thanks for the reply.
Open things in the basement - the pipe goes directly in the foundation in the basement. Would a plumber be able to deal with the concrete or would this require someone "breaking" the concrete (not sure if this is the correct terminology) around the pipe?– Greg
6 hours ago
@DMoore thanks for the reply.
Open things in the basement - the pipe goes directly in the foundation in the basement. Would a plumber be able to deal with the concrete or would this require someone "breaking" the concrete (not sure if this is the correct terminology) around the pipe?– Greg
6 hours ago
1
1
@Greg, well if freezes are ever a concern, you might as well replace it with one of these if it does end up needing replacement. They shut the water off inside the house so it's never exposed to the cold outside the walls.
– JPhi1618
4 hours ago
@Greg, well if freezes are ever a concern, you might as well replace it with one of these if it does end up needing replacement. They shut the water off inside the house so it's never exposed to the cold outside the walls.
– JPhi1618
4 hours ago
|
show 6 more comments
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
I have seen copper pipe have small pin holes on several occasions. If your pipe is copper and in contact with the cement this may be the cause. The only way to repair is to replace that section of pipe. When I do this kind of repair I make sure to use thick wall copper because it will last longer than thinwall.
Maybe also due to freeze/thaw cycles of water in the pipe causing a crack?
– manassehkatz
6 hours ago
Yes thicker wall and/or wrap it with tape.
– Joe Fala
5 hours ago
Thanks. We have a warranty that the seller paid for when we bought the house, so we have a plumber scheduled to come check it out.
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
A good time to add a frost proof spigot too.
– Mazura
2 hours ago
add a comment |
If you have access to the inside of the wall put up some cling wrap on the wall. Relatively quickly you should see where water is leaking. You can do this above, under, and to the sides of this faucet. If you wait too long to look at said cling wrap, it could all be wet.
Also it wouldn't hurt to dig a foot or two down on the outside and create a temporary well. If you do this three foot across on the outside and 18" down you can then view what the wet concrete looks like in a week or so. If it looks the same you know that your wet concrete is from an indoor leak for sure. If the wet area keeps traveling down to the well line it could also be excessive water at that spot on the outside being trapped there and wicking upward.
Thanks. As I commented above, we scheduled a plumber to come look at it through our home warranty. If it wasn't (or, maybe, if it isn't) covered, I'll use your method and go from there.
– Greg
4 hours ago
If a plumber is coming out you might want to dig - takes 5 mins - to prove out the leak.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
Ahh. Good point!
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
Also you may get charged if there is water coming from outside and you ordered a plumber for something not plumbing related. I would treat anyone coming through a warranty service as someone that you are paying because these companies are very good at making you pay for anything - that is how they make money.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
add a comment |
If you live in a colder weather climate (though your picture indicates that you probably don't due to plants showing at this time of year, and it's not a freeze-proof sillcock), you may have an inside shutoff valve to that outside faucet. If you do have an inside shutoff valve, you could turn that off for a couple days and see if the dampness reduces or disappears. If it does, that would indicate that the faucet plumbing is the culprit. If not, look elsewhere.
Though the dampness all the way up to your siding would indicate that the faucet itself may not be the culprit, especially if you don't see any direct signs of water either on the inside or outside, and dampness might not typically run against gravity that far unless it's really flowing. Is there any plumbing in the walls above that location that might be leaking down? Bathrooms or showers/tubs that may be leaking into the floor and running out? A window that might allow water to get behind the siding and drip down to the foundation? Roof or gutter issue allowing water to run down behind the siding in that location?
add a comment |
Water doesn't flow uphill so I would look in the wall directly above the sill cock
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Boo Radley is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
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4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
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oldest
votes
I have seen copper pipe have small pin holes on several occasions. If your pipe is copper and in contact with the cement this may be the cause. The only way to repair is to replace that section of pipe. When I do this kind of repair I make sure to use thick wall copper because it will last longer than thinwall.
Maybe also due to freeze/thaw cycles of water in the pipe causing a crack?
– manassehkatz
6 hours ago
Yes thicker wall and/or wrap it with tape.
– Joe Fala
5 hours ago
Thanks. We have a warranty that the seller paid for when we bought the house, so we have a plumber scheduled to come check it out.
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
A good time to add a frost proof spigot too.
– Mazura
2 hours ago
add a comment |
I have seen copper pipe have small pin holes on several occasions. If your pipe is copper and in contact with the cement this may be the cause. The only way to repair is to replace that section of pipe. When I do this kind of repair I make sure to use thick wall copper because it will last longer than thinwall.
Maybe also due to freeze/thaw cycles of water in the pipe causing a crack?
– manassehkatz
6 hours ago
Yes thicker wall and/or wrap it with tape.
– Joe Fala
5 hours ago
Thanks. We have a warranty that the seller paid for when we bought the house, so we have a plumber scheduled to come check it out.
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
A good time to add a frost proof spigot too.
– Mazura
2 hours ago
add a comment |
I have seen copper pipe have small pin holes on several occasions. If your pipe is copper and in contact with the cement this may be the cause. The only way to repair is to replace that section of pipe. When I do this kind of repair I make sure to use thick wall copper because it will last longer than thinwall.
I have seen copper pipe have small pin holes on several occasions. If your pipe is copper and in contact with the cement this may be the cause. The only way to repair is to replace that section of pipe. When I do this kind of repair I make sure to use thick wall copper because it will last longer than thinwall.
answered 6 hours ago
Ed BealEd Beal
34k12148
34k12148
Maybe also due to freeze/thaw cycles of water in the pipe causing a crack?
– manassehkatz
6 hours ago
Yes thicker wall and/or wrap it with tape.
– Joe Fala
5 hours ago
Thanks. We have a warranty that the seller paid for when we bought the house, so we have a plumber scheduled to come check it out.
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
A good time to add a frost proof spigot too.
– Mazura
2 hours ago
add a comment |
Maybe also due to freeze/thaw cycles of water in the pipe causing a crack?
– manassehkatz
6 hours ago
Yes thicker wall and/or wrap it with tape.
– Joe Fala
5 hours ago
Thanks. We have a warranty that the seller paid for when we bought the house, so we have a plumber scheduled to come check it out.
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
A good time to add a frost proof spigot too.
– Mazura
2 hours ago
Maybe also due to freeze/thaw cycles of water in the pipe causing a crack?
– manassehkatz
6 hours ago
Maybe also due to freeze/thaw cycles of water in the pipe causing a crack?
– manassehkatz
6 hours ago
Yes thicker wall and/or wrap it with tape.
– Joe Fala
5 hours ago
Yes thicker wall and/or wrap it with tape.
– Joe Fala
5 hours ago
Thanks. We have a warranty that the seller paid for when we bought the house, so we have a plumber scheduled to come check it out.
– Greg
4 hours ago
Thanks. We have a warranty that the seller paid for when we bought the house, so we have a plumber scheduled to come check it out.
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
2
A good time to add a frost proof spigot too.
– Mazura
2 hours ago
A good time to add a frost proof spigot too.
– Mazura
2 hours ago
add a comment |
If you have access to the inside of the wall put up some cling wrap on the wall. Relatively quickly you should see where water is leaking. You can do this above, under, and to the sides of this faucet. If you wait too long to look at said cling wrap, it could all be wet.
Also it wouldn't hurt to dig a foot or two down on the outside and create a temporary well. If you do this three foot across on the outside and 18" down you can then view what the wet concrete looks like in a week or so. If it looks the same you know that your wet concrete is from an indoor leak for sure. If the wet area keeps traveling down to the well line it could also be excessive water at that spot on the outside being trapped there and wicking upward.
Thanks. As I commented above, we scheduled a plumber to come look at it through our home warranty. If it wasn't (or, maybe, if it isn't) covered, I'll use your method and go from there.
– Greg
4 hours ago
If a plumber is coming out you might want to dig - takes 5 mins - to prove out the leak.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
Ahh. Good point!
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
Also you may get charged if there is water coming from outside and you ordered a plumber for something not plumbing related. I would treat anyone coming through a warranty service as someone that you are paying because these companies are very good at making you pay for anything - that is how they make money.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
add a comment |
If you have access to the inside of the wall put up some cling wrap on the wall. Relatively quickly you should see where water is leaking. You can do this above, under, and to the sides of this faucet. If you wait too long to look at said cling wrap, it could all be wet.
Also it wouldn't hurt to dig a foot or two down on the outside and create a temporary well. If you do this three foot across on the outside and 18" down you can then view what the wet concrete looks like in a week or so. If it looks the same you know that your wet concrete is from an indoor leak for sure. If the wet area keeps traveling down to the well line it could also be excessive water at that spot on the outside being trapped there and wicking upward.
Thanks. As I commented above, we scheduled a plumber to come look at it through our home warranty. If it wasn't (or, maybe, if it isn't) covered, I'll use your method and go from there.
– Greg
4 hours ago
If a plumber is coming out you might want to dig - takes 5 mins - to prove out the leak.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
Ahh. Good point!
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
Also you may get charged if there is water coming from outside and you ordered a plumber for something not plumbing related. I would treat anyone coming through a warranty service as someone that you are paying because these companies are very good at making you pay for anything - that is how they make money.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
add a comment |
If you have access to the inside of the wall put up some cling wrap on the wall. Relatively quickly you should see where water is leaking. You can do this above, under, and to the sides of this faucet. If you wait too long to look at said cling wrap, it could all be wet.
Also it wouldn't hurt to dig a foot or two down on the outside and create a temporary well. If you do this three foot across on the outside and 18" down you can then view what the wet concrete looks like in a week or so. If it looks the same you know that your wet concrete is from an indoor leak for sure. If the wet area keeps traveling down to the well line it could also be excessive water at that spot on the outside being trapped there and wicking upward.
If you have access to the inside of the wall put up some cling wrap on the wall. Relatively quickly you should see where water is leaking. You can do this above, under, and to the sides of this faucet. If you wait too long to look at said cling wrap, it could all be wet.
Also it wouldn't hurt to dig a foot or two down on the outside and create a temporary well. If you do this three foot across on the outside and 18" down you can then view what the wet concrete looks like in a week or so. If it looks the same you know that your wet concrete is from an indoor leak for sure. If the wet area keeps traveling down to the well line it could also be excessive water at that spot on the outside being trapped there and wicking upward.
answered 5 hours ago
DMooreDMoore
28.3k1350120
28.3k1350120
Thanks. As I commented above, we scheduled a plumber to come look at it through our home warranty. If it wasn't (or, maybe, if it isn't) covered, I'll use your method and go from there.
– Greg
4 hours ago
If a plumber is coming out you might want to dig - takes 5 mins - to prove out the leak.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
Ahh. Good point!
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
Also you may get charged if there is water coming from outside and you ordered a plumber for something not plumbing related. I would treat anyone coming through a warranty service as someone that you are paying because these companies are very good at making you pay for anything - that is how they make money.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
add a comment |
Thanks. As I commented above, we scheduled a plumber to come look at it through our home warranty. If it wasn't (or, maybe, if it isn't) covered, I'll use your method and go from there.
– Greg
4 hours ago
If a plumber is coming out you might want to dig - takes 5 mins - to prove out the leak.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
Ahh. Good point!
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
Also you may get charged if there is water coming from outside and you ordered a plumber for something not plumbing related. I would treat anyone coming through a warranty service as someone that you are paying because these companies are very good at making you pay for anything - that is how they make money.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
Thanks. As I commented above, we scheduled a plumber to come look at it through our home warranty. If it wasn't (or, maybe, if it isn't) covered, I'll use your method and go from there.
– Greg
4 hours ago
Thanks. As I commented above, we scheduled a plumber to come look at it through our home warranty. If it wasn't (or, maybe, if it isn't) covered, I'll use your method and go from there.
– Greg
4 hours ago
If a plumber is coming out you might want to dig - takes 5 mins - to prove out the leak.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
If a plumber is coming out you might want to dig - takes 5 mins - to prove out the leak.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
Ahh. Good point!
– Greg
4 hours ago
Ahh. Good point!
– Greg
4 hours ago
2
2
Also you may get charged if there is water coming from outside and you ordered a plumber for something not plumbing related. I would treat anyone coming through a warranty service as someone that you are paying because these companies are very good at making you pay for anything - that is how they make money.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
Also you may get charged if there is water coming from outside and you ordered a plumber for something not plumbing related. I would treat anyone coming through a warranty service as someone that you are paying because these companies are very good at making you pay for anything - that is how they make money.
– DMoore
4 hours ago
add a comment |
If you live in a colder weather climate (though your picture indicates that you probably don't due to plants showing at this time of year, and it's not a freeze-proof sillcock), you may have an inside shutoff valve to that outside faucet. If you do have an inside shutoff valve, you could turn that off for a couple days and see if the dampness reduces or disappears. If it does, that would indicate that the faucet plumbing is the culprit. If not, look elsewhere.
Though the dampness all the way up to your siding would indicate that the faucet itself may not be the culprit, especially if you don't see any direct signs of water either on the inside or outside, and dampness might not typically run against gravity that far unless it's really flowing. Is there any plumbing in the walls above that location that might be leaking down? Bathrooms or showers/tubs that may be leaking into the floor and running out? A window that might allow water to get behind the siding and drip down to the foundation? Roof or gutter issue allowing water to run down behind the siding in that location?
add a comment |
If you live in a colder weather climate (though your picture indicates that you probably don't due to plants showing at this time of year, and it's not a freeze-proof sillcock), you may have an inside shutoff valve to that outside faucet. If you do have an inside shutoff valve, you could turn that off for a couple days and see if the dampness reduces or disappears. If it does, that would indicate that the faucet plumbing is the culprit. If not, look elsewhere.
Though the dampness all the way up to your siding would indicate that the faucet itself may not be the culprit, especially if you don't see any direct signs of water either on the inside or outside, and dampness might not typically run against gravity that far unless it's really flowing. Is there any plumbing in the walls above that location that might be leaking down? Bathrooms or showers/tubs that may be leaking into the floor and running out? A window that might allow water to get behind the siding and drip down to the foundation? Roof or gutter issue allowing water to run down behind the siding in that location?
add a comment |
If you live in a colder weather climate (though your picture indicates that you probably don't due to plants showing at this time of year, and it's not a freeze-proof sillcock), you may have an inside shutoff valve to that outside faucet. If you do have an inside shutoff valve, you could turn that off for a couple days and see if the dampness reduces or disappears. If it does, that would indicate that the faucet plumbing is the culprit. If not, look elsewhere.
Though the dampness all the way up to your siding would indicate that the faucet itself may not be the culprit, especially if you don't see any direct signs of water either on the inside or outside, and dampness might not typically run against gravity that far unless it's really flowing. Is there any plumbing in the walls above that location that might be leaking down? Bathrooms or showers/tubs that may be leaking into the floor and running out? A window that might allow water to get behind the siding and drip down to the foundation? Roof or gutter issue allowing water to run down behind the siding in that location?
If you live in a colder weather climate (though your picture indicates that you probably don't due to plants showing at this time of year, and it's not a freeze-proof sillcock), you may have an inside shutoff valve to that outside faucet. If you do have an inside shutoff valve, you could turn that off for a couple days and see if the dampness reduces or disappears. If it does, that would indicate that the faucet plumbing is the culprit. If not, look elsewhere.
Though the dampness all the way up to your siding would indicate that the faucet itself may not be the culprit, especially if you don't see any direct signs of water either on the inside or outside, and dampness might not typically run against gravity that far unless it's really flowing. Is there any plumbing in the walls above that location that might be leaking down? Bathrooms or showers/tubs that may be leaking into the floor and running out? A window that might allow water to get behind the siding and drip down to the foundation? Roof or gutter issue allowing water to run down behind the siding in that location?
answered 2 hours ago
MilwrdfanMilwrdfan
56529
56529
add a comment |
add a comment |
Water doesn't flow uphill so I would look in the wall directly above the sill cock
New contributor
Boo Radley is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
Water doesn't flow uphill so I would look in the wall directly above the sill cock
New contributor
Boo Radley is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
Water doesn't flow uphill so I would look in the wall directly above the sill cock
New contributor
Boo Radley is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Water doesn't flow uphill so I would look in the wall directly above the sill cock
New contributor
Boo Radley is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Boo Radley is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 4 mins ago
Boo RadleyBoo Radley
1
1
New contributor
Boo Radley is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Boo Radley is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Boo Radley is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
add a comment |
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What do you mean from the inside? Is there a basement where you can easily access the inside of this concrete wall/foundation?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
@JPhi1618 yes, I'll update
– Greg
7 hours ago
There is a good chance it is wicking upward as long-standing water issues do travel northing in concrete to a degree. However the slight "crack" you have at the top makes me think this is at the faucet or higher. This does need to get fixed. You need to open things in basement, as any plumber would need that access.
– DMoore
7 hours ago
@DMoore thanks for the reply.
Open things in the basement- the pipe goes directly in the foundation in the basement. Would a plumber be able to deal with the concrete or would this require someone "breaking" the concrete (not sure if this is the correct terminology) around the pipe?– Greg
6 hours ago
1
@Greg, well if freezes are ever a concern, you might as well replace it with one of these if it does end up needing replacement. They shut the water off inside the house so it's never exposed to the cold outside the walls.
– JPhi1618
4 hours ago